
04-01-2005, 01:59 PM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St-Lazare, Canada.
Posts: 33
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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To Commando:
I built a solid (non-floating) dock on our lake front. It is in the shape of an "L". Basically it is 8 feet wide throughout and the "straight" span is 25' long. At this point it turns 90 degrees to the left and spans 15 more feet. The point where it turns I've had the 5/4 x 6 ripped at my local lumber yard. All the boards were ripped equally 0 to 6" taper. By spacing them all equally, I've created a fan design. There are around 20 boards that accomplish this stylish look. I drew it up in a 3D software (I design with this) and gave the dimensions to the saw man. For a minimal charge (20 bucks for the whole lot) he ripped them all with no apparent problems keeping the tolerances. The regular flooring boards are all rounded edges so after these one were ripped I used my router to re-create the rounded edge on the cut side. Turned out fine.
Anyhow, just to update you all on my kitchen floor job:
I started noticing rotten wood joists in some areas of this floor and decided to remove all the sub-flooring. I replaced the 1 rotten joist and doubled 2 x 6's to the remainder of the entire floor joists (16' long floor x 17 joists spaced 12"). I used PL Premium adhesive along with deck screws to attach them together. When I set out straight edges over the floor I found the lowest points (where the washer/dryer leaked over the years) were 2-1/4" below the highest points (along the foundation walls). Now I have a perfectly level and very solid flooring joist surface on which to lay 3/4 or 1" ply. Plumbing is next then the floor. So it seems if I won't be using the taper idea anyhow.
Thanks to all
Here's a view of the dock
http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2005-4-1_Image06_(2)_w550.jpg
http://www.homerepairforum.com/images/uploads/2005-4-1_0407070009_(2)_w550.JPG
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