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Do It yourself door openers.
The top section of a garage door should not buckle with adequete installation. Sure a homeowner can get a garage door operator at any of the big box stores and install it himself and save $150.
I actually don't have a problem with this either beacause I get calls all the time to fix problems that developed after a homeowner install. But free of charge on this site here we go.
Pitfalls of door opener installations by do-it-yourselfers.
1. Top section not adequetely reinforced. Depending on make and model of door (cheap house usually = cheap door, but don't count yourself lucky with an expensive house as builders like to skimp on garage doors and openers because that is not as important as living space)
To do this there should be a strut at the top to the section and a operator plate of some sort that goes undrneath strut, and overtop of the doors existing center stile (found in line with center hinges).
2. Do not install the opener any higher than one inch above peak of door travel in the radius of the track, and an inch above the door at open position. This does not always mean the operator rail will be level, in fact in most cases the motor will be lower than the rail attached to the wall/header.
the track for the door however should be level or slightly uphill. If it is going downhill this will strain the door and eventually wear out the top section and possibly other sections as well.
3. Do not use the supports in the box to backhang the opener. They are cheap and just not rigid enough. No respectable garage door company would use them, why should you. You should have one brace from the cieling on both sides of your operator and another one that runs diagonally to prevent sway left or right.
4. When attaching the arm to the door it should not be at a 45degree angle, but almost straight up and down, though not completey verticle (5-10degrees is plenty) depending on the track used a longer arm is usually not a good thing.
I can be reach via email, write with questions
Ryan
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