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The cheaper switch looks like it may be just a little bit longer
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You mean the plunger that gets activated by the door? If so, that shouldn't usually cause a problem.
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and the terminals are further apart;
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Exactly.
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terminals coming from the fridge are inside a rubber-like harness.
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Yes, that will be the problem.
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I can snip the harness in the middle to separate the female terminals to accomodate the extra width.
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That may be a solution.
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I can join them back together with some black tape.
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That wouldn't be absolutely necessary. The terminals are just together in a single connector for speed of assembly at the plant rather than having to deal with separate wires. Having the two parts plugged in separately should be fine.
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It did not light no matter what position the switch was in. I attempted to make sure there was still voltage coming from the female terminals with the switch removed.
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The light didn't work
before or
after the switch was removed?? No power should flow to the light with the switch disconnected from the circuit.
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I was only able to touch the very outside edges of both the + & - socket.
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You're certain you were touching the outer contact for the bulb socket? It may not have fully metal thread like a normal lamp socket has. It may just have a small contact point that makes contact with the bulb threads at a single point only.
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Is it possible I now have a different problem
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Anything is possible but before you jump to conclusions, have you made sure the bulb is good? Those cheap sockets also fail quite often.
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or a blown fuse in the light assembly in the fridge?
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There should be no fuse anywhere in the appliance.
JMO
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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