
01-24-2005, 03:38 AM
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Deity
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Youngstown, Ohio USA.
Posts: 2,257
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While it obviosly is not possible to read the date plate on the pump while it is at the bottom of a 300 foot well, we can theoretically determine the Horse Power by meauring both the LINE VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE to the pump.
Using the formula P= E x I where P= watts, E = Volts and I = Amps, you could then multiply voltage x amps to determine Watts. By then using the constant 1 Horsepower mechanical = 746 Watts electrical we can then determine the working horsepower by simple division.
Given that the pump is pressently at a depth of between 200' and 300' and the static head pressure of water is approximately .5psi/ft. vertical, we can estimate the pumps current output pressure to be 100psi to 150psi + 60psi line pressure for the house which would then be a range from 160psi to 210psi minimum if measured at the pump discharge port. (60psi distribution line pressure + the physical weight of the water standing in the pipe rising from the pump to the house - (static head pressure ))
In this case the plumbers are correct. There should be no valve or device between the pump and the pressure regulator that could interfere with the pressure regulator sensing the true discharge pressure from the pump.
There are two availabe options at this point, one, install the pressure regulator on a tee before the sediment filter or 2, leave the pressure control on the tank (required by some local codes) and install the shutoff valve and sediment filter on the downstream side of the pressure tank. In this configuration the pressure tank should also be fitted with a manual blowdown valve (boiler cock) to periodically purge sediment from the tank.
The main shutoff valve Must Be placed after the pressure tank, but before the sediment filter. A second valve may be placed on the downstream side (after the filter) to permit isolating the filter for service.
Also, keep in mind that if you have copper piping, there can be no direct coupling of copper to Galvanized Iron pipes, vessels or fittings. All transistions from Galvanized metal to copper MUST BE made by means of Dielectric Unions, Dielectric nipples or a 6" hardened bronze nipple to prevent corrosion.
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