[LazyPup]

Austin,,I just received a very informative email reply from the manufacturer.

They inform me that this particular water heater does not have the conventional top ports, thus it does not have a dip tube inlet for cold water, but instead requires the use of the bottom side port.

This configuration is common to commercial water heaters and does not in any manner imply the overall quality of the product is diminished. In fact, based upon all the information I have been able to gather I would personally rate this product very high.

Having now resolved all of that, we may then proceed to how to correct the stress on the supply lines.

The side inlet port does have the required dielectric coupling built in so there is no concern with directly coupling the copper lines to the tank.

The easiest solution would be to turn the cold water supply valve off, then open the water heater drain valve to drain the water down below the level of the horizontal cold water pipe to permit soldering.

Cut the horizontal line on the downstream side of the supply valve (tank side) and install a union, which is code required, and a short length of copper tubing to extend the offset enough to releive the stress on the pipes, and connect the short length of copper to the horizontal pipe with a coupling.

According to the manufacturer the T&P walve is a long probe type and meets code for this installation, but you should keep in mind that if it is necessary to replace the T&P in future you would have to use a long probe type valve. They are commonly available at most hardwares, home supplies and plumbing supply houses so that should not be a concern.

You may also want to consider installing insulation on the exposed portion of the hot water line.

I would definitely consider having the electrical cable properly supported and have the required service disconnect installed.