Electric oven problem

[To D Lake]

1992 Hotpoint Model # RB757GN2WM Electric Stove

The oven would not heat past 325. Called GE helpline and was told it was definitely the thermostat. Replaced $120 t-stat and while it now heats to at least 450, it takes a loooong time to get there. Any ideas? Possibly the burner? Any way to check it before I end up spending more on parts than a new oven costs?

Thanks!

Robb

[LazyPup]

In order to test the electric range heating elements you will need an ohm meter.

Before you begin, disconnect the main power cable.

Look inside the oven and you will see two elements, the bake element (bottom) and the broil element (top).

Most oven elements are mounted by a small square plate that it attached to the back of the oven cavity wall by two screws.

Some ranges have a small access cover about 3x 3 inches on the back of the range directly behind the heating element mounts. If there is an access cover open it to access the electrical connections. If there is no access cover you will have to remove the element from inside the oven cavity.

To pull the element, remove the mounting screws and carefully pull the element forward. On the end of the element you will see two wires connected by either a screw terminal or high temperature slide on spade terminal.

To test the elements you will have to disconnect the wires.

Using an OHM meter, measure the resistance from terminal one to terminal two. The actual resistance will vary from one manufacturer to another, but it should be in a range of about 5 to 10 ohms. Zero ohms would indicate an open circuit (burned out element).

Next measure the resistance from either terminal to the actual surface of the heating element. The meter should read zero. If you get an ohm reading when measuring from a wire terminal to the surface of the element the element is internally shorted.

When you finish one element, replace the wires, then repeat the test on the other element.

[To D Lake]

Thanks alot! That's just the info I needed!

Robb

[To D Lake]

UPDATE

After pulling apart and testing just about every circuit on the entire oven/stove, it turns out that the microswitch that is part of the self-cleaning door safety was stuck. Things are right with my world again! By the way, when I tested the elements, they both read about 20 OHMS? Did I mess something up with my multimeter or is that feasable?

Thanks!

Robb

[LazyPup]

Sounds like you got it all under control now.

The actual resistance readings can very greatly depending upon the actual wattage rating of the heating elements.

You stated that you got a reading of 20 ohms.

Although there is some compensation requred for AC vs DC voltage we can still compute an approximation of your elements.

OHMs law states that Votage = Amperage x resistance,(E= I x R) therefore we could resolve the amperage by the formula I = E/R which in this case is 220v / 20ohms = 11amps.

The formula for power (watts) is P= E x I thus we could say

P= 220v x 11a = 2420 watts.