Many Ice makers have a parafin safety thermostat inside that requires 18 to 24hrs at or below 10 deg F. before they reset. The water valve cannot open until the thermostat resets. The purpose is to insure the freezer is actually working before it calls for water, otherwise the new water coming in could overflow the mold and leak down into the freezer or out onto the kitchen floor.
First check your water supply valve (usually under the kitchen sink) to insure it is turned on.
On some icemaker installation instructions there is an often overlooked step inwhich the installer must manually pour water into the mold to start the process.
Check your instruction manual of physically examine the control head on your ice maker. Most ice maker control heads have a test port where a wire shunt can be inserted to bypass the parafin thermostate and start the harvest cycle to test the unit.
To make a bypass shunt, you will need 2" or 3" inches of common AWG 14 insulated electrical wire. (an old piece of 14/2 romax works great).
on each end of the wire strip it back about 3/8" and bend the wire into a U shape.
Locate the test port and remove the plastic cover. The underside of the cover has two molded plastic tips that fit into the test port holes by friction fit so it will pop off easily.
Carefully holding the wire by the insulated part, insert on tip into each hole and hold it there a few seconds. You should see the harvest raker bar start to rotate. Pull the wire out when the rotation starts and allow the raker to rotate through the complete cycle. The wire ice level sensor bar should lift and lower, and the rakers rotate through the mold. As the raker bar nears the 12 o'clock position you should hear the water solenoid open, and you should be able to see water entering the mold.
On initial startup it may take a couple cycles to get water up from the solenoid to the ice maker.
If you are not getting water, take a small instrument screwdriver or a thin phillips screw driver and probe inside the water fill tube where it comes through the freezer cabinet wall, there may be ice inside that tube that is blocking the water flow.
If the water supply valve is on, and you are still not getting water during the test cycle, turn the water off at the supply valve and disconnect the water line from the solenoid valve. Hold the end of the water line in a container and have someone turn the water on a few moments to prove there is water coming through the line from the sink. (You could have a bad supply valve, kinked water line or and obstructed water filter.)
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