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Thread: moving gas stove

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    oneil is offline New Member
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    moving gas stove

    I am thinking of remodeling the kitchen. I would have to move my gas stove and hook up across the room (14 ft)How expensive is this and who do I call? There is a michigan basement underneath the area.

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    LazyPup is offline Deity
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    You did not mention how the gas line is run now so for the moment I will assume it to be 1/2" black iron pipe, which is the most commonly used material for gas.

    Moving the gas pipe should be a very easy job. You simply disconnect the existing gas line, install the necessary additional pipe, and reconnect.

    You may call a plumber to do the job, but it should not prove difficult as a DIY project.

    I would begin by lighting a surface burner on the gas range, then turn the GAS OFF at the house main and wait until the burner goes out. That will consumer the majority of the residual gas in the line after the main is turned off.

    Disconnect the Flex line from the Shutoff valve behind the range.

    Go below the floor and unscrew the riser to the gas valve from the top of the TEE. Unscrew the TEE from the Horizontal supply line.

    Clean the threads on the end of the horizontal line thoroughly with a wire brush and apply Pipe Dope to the threads. (Make Sure the PIPE DOPE is labelled as approved for GAS SERVICE)
    Apply pipe dope to the threads on the end of the new pipe.
    Install a black iron pipe coupling on the threads of the existing pipe, then screw the new section of pipe into the coupling and tighten the joint using two pipe wrenches, one to hold the existing pipe steady as you tighten the coupling and the new pipe into place with a second wrench. Install pipe support hangers at not more than 5' intervals.
    Apply pipe dope to the end of the new pipe and reinstall the Tee that you disconnected.
    Drop the riser down through the floor at the new location. Clean the threads thoroughly with a wire brush, apply Pipe dope and screw into the top of the TEE. Tighten the pipe thoroughly then turn the Gas service valve on top of the riser OFF.

    Move the range and re-attach the flex service line. (Do not put DOPE or TEFLON on the flex line flare connection).

    Mix equal parts of liquid dishwashing soap and water in a spray bottle and shake well.

    Turn the gas main on and check each joint by spraying with the soap mix and watching for bubbles. If you see any bubbles tighten the joint again. After all joints have been tested, turn the Service valve on at the range and light all pilot lights on the range.





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    oneil is offline New Member
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    Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out, I really appreciate it!

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    The information and illustrations I provided are typical of a code approved installation, however i cannot see what you presently have, nor do i have your local codes available so I will point out some additional code points that you should be aware of. You will see that the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code allows some options. You must check with your local code authority to see what is approved in your jurisdiction.

    All gas appliances are required to have a shutoff valve in the immediate vicinity of the appliance.

    The shutoff MUST BE in the samre room as the appliance, it may not be directly under the floor as was done in years past.

    Some local codes prohibit the use of flexible gas lines and require the gas to be piped the full distance to the appliance.

    There must be a union between the shutoff valve and the appliance. If your local code permits flexible gas lines, the Flare fitting on the end of the flex line is accepted as the union.

    Flexible gas lines MAY NOT run through a floor or wall. They must originate and terminate within the same room.

    Flexible gas lines may not pass through the cabinet wall of an appliance. Most gas ranges have the gas valve connection under the cooktop near the front of the range. That is to provide clearance for a union in instances where the gas line must he hard piped the whole distance. To use a flex line you are required to install a pipe nipple from the gas valve input to the back of the cabinet so the flex line connects immediately outside the range cabinet.

    The plumbing code permits steel pipe, both black iron pipe and galvanized iron pipe, but many local codes only permit the black iron.
    Even if the galvanized is approved in you locality, all the pipe must be the same, you may not mix galvanized with black pipe and you may not mix galvanized or black fittings with the other type of pipe.

    Gas piping may not be repaired. If a gas pipe is found to be defective it MUST BE replaced with new pipe.

    If a pipe is run in a crawl space there must be a minimum of 3 1/2" clearance between the pipe and the earth at all points.

    The plumbing codes allow copper tubing for gas service only when the gas is certified to contain less than 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulfide per 100 cu.ft of gas and the installation requires a written letter of certification from the gas supplier.

    CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) is permitted under the International Residential Code but is prohibited under the Uniform Plumbing Code.

    ALL GAS LINES regardless of what material, when run under a slab or direct burial under a structure MUST BE RUN through a Schedule 40 PVC or Iron pipe conduit. The conduit must be sealed on both ends and MUST HAVE and atmospheric vent outside the structure. The vent opening must rise above grade and turn 180 deg so the vent opening is downward with the opening not less than 4" above grade.


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