Sears Dryer problem

[wptski]

Sears Dryer Model #110.77570110.

Dryer motor just hums when started and draws around 35A. Motor cetrifugal switch is good, windings have been checked at 1000V with a Fluke 1507 insulation test and the windings check between 1-5 ohms as per a repair manual.

After several days I have discovered that when cold, the motor will start without the drive belt on. I have used the dryer as sometimes after several tries, it'll run. After running a drying cycle when motor is hot, motor won't restart even with belt off!

I can't find any data on exactly how difference in resistance I should read between the start and run windings. I'm only seeing about .6 ohms right now. When motor is hot resistance increases but that's normal.

Bill

[Dan O.]

It sounds to me more like the motor's bearings are shot in which case the motor likely needs to be replaced.

- Kenmore 110.77570110 Replacement Dryer Motor
LINK > http://tinyurl.com/brmxp

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[wptski]

quote:Originally posted by Dan O.

It sounds to me more like the motor's bearings are shot in which case the motor likely needs to be replaced.

- Kenmore 110.77570110 Replacement Dryer Motor
LINK > http://tinyurl.com/brmxp

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

Dan:

Well the bearing feel good hot or cold. I forgot to add is that when it does start, it only draws 5.2A(normal) and from what I've read up on, amperage is a pretty good check of general motor conditions. I just stopped at my local library but still can't find any info what the winding difference should be between the start and run winding. I also checked another Sears dryer but a different model using a amp clamp probe with a DMM in min/max and fast min/max. I get about the same peak reading. I also got the same peak reading with the belt off on a cold start.

It's something with the starting circuit only. The insulation test doesn't test for turn to turn shorts that why I'm looking for the value or difference between the windings.

Bill

[wptski]

Dan:

I rechecked a few things again and found the motor to have a "slight" sticky spot when rotated including about 3/32" end play. I ordered a motor but the link you provided was for the wrong one. There are two possible motors and you must check the shaft lenght. They also look a bit different too and are priced different.

Bill

[Dan O.]

quote:Originally posted by wptski
There are two possible motors and you must check the shaft length.

Whirlpool built dryers *in general* could use one of two different motors but that is because there are two different common designs of Whirlpool dryers. Every dryer of the same design will use the same motor.

I looked up the motor for your dryer by its model number (ie. by its parts list). The original motor for your model dryer was # 346744 which is now substituted with # 279827 which is what I linked to. The other common motor (# 279787) is used on a newer style of Whirlpool dryer and should NOT be found on your dryer design. JMO

But let us know how you eventually make out.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[wptski]

Dan:

I may have ordered the wrong one but going by the shaft lenght of 1 1/4" drive end and not 1 3/4", it's the 279787. If you notice the 279827's pulley has a hole on the end and a hex because it's threaded on, mine isn't, it's straight with a setscrew. The blower end lenght is different on these two also but I can't tell about that since the motor is still installed. The center line of pulley might be same on both though. The idler pulley is twice as wide as the belt but I have a new idler which is crowned to keep the belt on center, so drive pulley location had better line up. The old idler which was replaced once is flat!

The 279827 is shown with what I assume is the centrifugal switch installed although they really don't say that it come with the motor, only the pulley. That doesn't look at all like my switch. What I have looks like what's shown on the 279787.

EDIT: I take that last paragraph back! Actually neither looks like my switch. A bit confusing!!

EDIT: I wondered if they gave the drive end lenght with the pulley on? Here's a link to the same motor(279827) from a different seller: http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp...&SeqID=2&Chg=1. The lenght with pulley is about 2" which is much longer than mine measured with the pulley installed. Still confusing!![:0]


Bill

[Dan O.]

** The 279827 is shown with what I assume is the centrifugal switch installed although they really don't say that it come with the motor **

Yes, the motor switch will always come with a replacement dryer motor since the replacement motor may not be identical to the original.

** That doesn't look at all like my switch. **

Part specifications change all the time as does the material used in their manufacture. I doubt you'd be able to get *exactly* the same part that was made 10-15 years ago, today. A replacement will however mount and connect electrically where an original was... provided you get the correct replacement.

** I may have ordered the wrong one **

Than when you get it you may have to return it and order the right one for your model.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[wptski]

quote:Originally posted by Dan O.

** The 279827 is shown with what I assume is the centrifugal switch installed although they really don't say that it come with the motor **

Yes, the motor switch will always come with a replacement dryer motor since the replacement motor may not be identical to the original.

** That doesn't look at all like my switch. **

Part specifications change all the time as does the material used in their manufacture. I doubt you'd be able to get *exactly* the same part that was made 10-15 years ago, today. A replacement will however mount and connect electrically where an original was... provided you get the correct replacement.

** I may have ordered the wrong one **

Than when you get it you may have to return it and order the right one for your model.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

Dan:

Actually, so far, it seems easy to get the smaller parts for a older dryer! I have a new push to start switch , which I "can" return and a centrifugal switch which I "can't" return.

You and a Ebay seller are both telling me that I ordered the wrong motor but by the motor's description shaft lenght, it's the correct motor. Do you think that a motor with a 1/2" longer drive end will line up correctly with the idler pulley?

I've learned one thing though! Don't jump the gun on ordering parts, you may have to eat them!!

Bill

[Dan O.]

** Do you think that a motor with a 1/2" longer drive end will line up correctly with the idler pulley? **

If it is not the right motor, it will likely not fit properly. If they were interchangeable, Whirlpool would likely make a only single replacement available and substitute all previous motor versions to that same replacement.

** Don't jump the gun on ordering parts **

Or at least order them in the proper way as is described in the 'Repair Parts' tutorial section of my web site linked below.

** you may have to eat them! **

That too is a possibility depending on the type of part being ordered (see the following link) and the return policy of the particular vendor.

- Repair Parts: Don't be surprised!
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/parts/surprise.shtml

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=Kenmore_Dryer
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[wptski]

Dan:

The motor came today and it's the wrong one because the lenght specified in the description is including the pulley but the lenght of the blower end isn't! Oh! Well....

Bill