|
It would be very difficult to provide a step by step diagnostic because, while almost all washers perform the same functions, the methods used to control the functions can vary greatly from one model to another.
In regard to your question about two white (common) wires on the motor. Most direct drive washing machines use a reversing motor, rotating one direction for washing and the opposite direction for spin and pump out thus the motors must have both a forward and reverse winding. In order to select which direction the motor will rotate they can either have individual power wires to the separate windings or they may have one power wire and select separate commons. The latter configuration is often used because it then only requires one start winding and one start relay.
As DanO has already pointed out, just getting a resistance reading is not a guarantee that the motor winding is good. The winding could have an internal short part way through the winding, in which case it would show a small resistance but not indictate the problem.
On the other hand, your problem may not even be in the motor. Washing machines have a number of functions that must be performed before the motor can run, by example, in the wash cycle the water fill level diaphram switch must be closed before the time can advance from fill to run. In the spin cycle the door switch must be closed before the motor can start.
The timer itself is a very complex set of cams and switches and is generally the weakest link in the series of events.
Somewhere inside your washer you should be able to find a manufacturers wiring schematic and timer sequence chart. By locating the point of failure on the time sequence chart you can then trace the wiring for that portion of the cycle.
|
Linear Mode
