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Old 10-29-2007, 11:22 PM
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GE over the range microwave

I have a 2 year old GE spacemaker 2.0 over the range microwave JVM2050WH.
For the last 2 months, it has been working somewhat intermittently. Sometimes, when you heat a cup of water, the microwave will turn on, lights on, turn table rotates but the water does not heat up. It seems to do this intermittently and I'm trying to figure out if it's worth repairing. This unit costs me $400 and just to get the GE repair guy out is $80. If he finds out the cause and repairs it, it will be $80 + labor+ parts. For obvious reasons, GE does not sell parts nor give our circuit diagrams for microwaves.
we have only used this microwave lightly, mainly for heating food etc light cooking. since the unit seems to heat sporadically, I figure it might be a loose connection(highly unlikely) or the magnetron is failing(which is odd for a 2 year old microwave). Of course I don't have the extended warranty for the microwave.

I did check the power coming out of the receptacle and it is consistant with other receptacles. while remodelling my kitchen, I've also plugged it in other receptacles and it seems to do the same thing intermittantly and also the digital display dimming/bright and beeper sound.

I hate to spend $80 to have the guy come out and tell me it needs $200+ worth of repair. I can get a new microwave for a little more. Don't need anything fancy.

Some history. This unit has worked somewhat wierd since it was installed. The beeper would sound different sometimes, the digital display would be dim sometimes and other times be bright. While under warranty, I've had the repair guys come out 3 times and each time they tell me it's normal operation. Of course I don't believe them but when this is not my normal experience for microwaves, they tell me that they see this all the time in their line of work. This is the only GE appliance in my kitchen and I've always thought GE microwaves were good. I had a standalone one which lasted for a very long time but this above the range seems to be different.

Should I have it repaired or use it until it fails completely and buy a new one with an extended warranty?

Last edited by danz; 10-29-2007 at 11:25 PM. Reason: Add infomation
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Old 10-30-2007, 02:16 AM
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** JVM2050WH **

That model number looks incomplete, did you get it right off the appliance's model and serial number identification tag?

** GE does not sell parts **

Sure they do and you can also buy them at most good appliance parts suppliers. They will not likely tell you what is needed over the phone though.

** nor give our circuit diagrams **

There should be a wiring diagram on or in the unit somewhere. If for some reason it has been removed, GE will supply a replacement... possibly for a fee. They (nor any other major appliance manufacturer) however will not supply circuit diagrams for circuit boards used on their products.

** I figure it might be a loose connection or the magnetron is failing **

Or any number of internal components in the heating circuit.

** magnetron is failing (which is odd for a 2 year old microwave) **

Not really these days. GE might even have the highest failure rate in recent years.

** Of course I don't have the extended warranty for the microwave. **

Models purchased before Jan. 2006 may have up to a 5-year warranty (see the following link) on the magnetron tube (part only). Check your owner's manual.

LINK > The Purchase: Limited Warranties

** I'm trying to figure out if it's worth repairing... just to get the GE repair guy out is $80. **

And he likely won't be able to do much unless it is malfunctioning at the time when he's there.

JMO

Dan O.
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The Appliance Information Site

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Old 10-30-2007, 04:56 AM
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check the connection [which you say is unlikely] check the door switch(s) there may be two of them which interlock when the door is closed. the magnetron uses push on spade connections check these out. never operate the unit without some sort of sheild around it. spurious radiation could be harmful. the magnetron operates around 27-28 mHz same as a cb radio. check to make sure the waveguide is securely fastened to the "cavity" your oven. If there is an interrupter paddle make sure the motor is distributing the microwaves.
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan O. View Post
** JVM2050WH **

That model number looks incomplete, did you get it right off the appliance's model and serial number identification tag?
It should be JVM2050WH02
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:15 PM
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parts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by danz

[The model number] should be JVM2050WH02
If you need parts, you can use the exploded parts view of that model at the following link to pick them out.

LINK > GE JVM2050WH02 Exploded Parts Views

JFYI

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Old 11-04-2007, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan O. View Post
If you need parts, you can use the exploded parts view of that model at the following link to pick them out.

LINK > GE JVM2050WH02 Exploded Parts Views

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
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based on the observations over the last week, I think it might be the door latch that is causing it not to work properly. The funny thing is that if the door is not closed hard enough, the microwave will work like normal but just not heat. Within 5 secs, you can usually tell if it's going to work properly because the light in the microwave will dimm slightly and you can hear the turntable sort of slow down a little(like a heavy load on the circuit). If it doesn't work, I just open and close the door a little harder and it usually works after that. Problem is that how is it that the lights, turntable will work like normal but not heat? if the door latch is not working like it should, I would assume that nothing will even turn on.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:42 PM
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try going to the site above - parts #95,96, 97 plus the magnetron's thermostat may be the root of your problem.
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Old 11-04-2007, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danz

how is it that the lights, turntable will work like normal but not heat?
I can't imagine how that could be caused by a door switch problem. Someone might have to check the wiring diagram to see if it is even possible. I myself doubt it and think it more likely a coincidence. Maybe the jarring received by closing the door harder is affecting some other component?

I have to assume the power drain you're experiencing IS the cooking system being engaged in which case the switch(es) must be making contact at that time therefore it should be heating... if the heating system was functioning properly.

JMO

Dan O.
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan O. View Post
I can't imagine how that could be caused by a door switch problem. Someone might have to check the wiring diagram to see if it is even possible. I myself doubt it and think it more likely a coincidence. Maybe the jarring received by closing the door harder is affecting some other component?

I have to assume the power drain you're experiencing IS the cooking system being engaged in which case the switch(es) must be making contact at that time therefore it should be heating... if the heating system was functioning properly.
I agree with you and that is why I kept observing for a week to see if I can find the pattern of which causes it to fail. I have not taken apart the unit to see if I can find something loose yet.

the power drain(lights dim slightly, motor sound reduced) usually comes on(if it works correctly) after about 2-3 secs. that is when I know if it will actually heat up or not. if there is no power drain(lights don't dim and motor sound stays the same), I just open the door and close it again. I've experimented with closing the door lightly and closing the door harder. I would say the frequency of which it does not heat up is more when the door is closed lightly.

Again, I don't believe it is the switch either because the lights come on and the turntable rotates. but I can't seem to pu tmy finger on the problem. I'll open it up this week and see if I can see anything obvious.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:26 AM
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Let us know how you make out.

Dan O.
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