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Thread: GE Profile Refrigerator Has Dispenser and Temperature Display Problems

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    noemc is offline New Member
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    Angry GE Profile Refrigerator Has Dispenser and Temperature Display Problems

    I have a GE Profile PSS26SGPA side by side refrigerator freezer. Yesterday the ice maker stopped dispensing ice and water. The LEDs light up and respond to keystrokes on the front panel, but when you place a glass under the dispenser the door opens, but the auger does not turn and no ice or water comes out. There is ice in the dispenser.

    Thinking the computer needed to be reset, I unplugged the unit, waited 5 mins and plugged it back in. Not only did that not solve the problem, but now the display panel inside the refrigerator is completely blank (no temperature displayed or LEDs inside the refrig). LEDs outside the refrig light up as they did before. If I press the "cooler" button, I hear a beep but no display. Occasionally the unit will beep 5 times and the numbers "000" will flash, then the unit goes blank again. My attempt to reset by unplugging the unit for 5 mins does not work.

    The compressor is running. I'm not sure whether the unit is cooling or not.

    Please help - GE service cannot come out for another 8 days!

    -Mark

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    Dan O.'s Avatar
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    Sorry but the source of the problem would have to be investigated. I can't think of any specific thing that could affect all those functions at the same time besides maybe a problem in that electronic control?

    ** Thinking the computer needed to be reset, I unplugged the unit, waited 5 mins and plugged it back in. **

    There isn't usually any other way to reset electronic controls on major appliances.

    ** The compressor is running. I'm not sure whether the unit is cooling or not. **

    Are the items inside the appliance cold and/or frozen, respectively?

    ** GE service cannot come out for another 8 days! **

    If the fridge is actually keeping temperature, that might not be as big of concern.

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

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    noemc is offline New Member
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    Question

    Dan O. - Thanks for your comments. A few additional observations:

    -Ice maker is working and producing ice. Quick ice is non-functional
    -Refrigerator is cold and freezer is working properly. The temperature displays are still off, and there doesn't appear to be any way of controlling the temperature, but all compartments are cold. Must be working off of default or stored settings.

    My guess is the main circuit board is fried OR the circuit board controlling the ice dispenser is fried and that is putting the main board into an error condition. Let me know if I am on the right track and if there is any way to test this.

    -Mark

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    noemc is offline New Member
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    Talking GE Fridge Fixed

    The GE repairman came out today - replaced the board twice, but that did not fix the problem. Turns out the ice dispenser control board connector at the bottom of the freezer door was corroded. After he cleaned that up the icemaker worked. Resetting the control board by removing power from the refrigerator solved the display problem. Total cost - $85 - pretty good deal for a housecall. This is a pretty easy repair to do yourself, and apparently it's quite common for corrosion at this connector. Before he found out that was the problem, he was musing that if there was a bad wire inside the refrigerator I would have to replace the unit with a prorated refund from GE. Obviously, I would not have been happy with that outcome!

    -Mark

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    doitmyselfguy (04-26-2011)

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    Dan O.'s Avatar
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    Glad to hear you eventually got to the bottom of the problem. Thanks for the follow up.

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

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    doitmyselfguy is offline New Member
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    Found the corroded connector, cut it out and spliced the wires. Works great! 1/2 hour - Thank you!!

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    ok_kidd (05-28-2011)

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    ok_kidd is offline New Member
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    wow

    found the connection- made sure the wires were snug-cleaned as much as I could without disconnecting-corrosion definitely appears to be the problem-30 minute fix is about right- saved a bunch of money- ice and water now work just fine- thanks for your help
    Last edited by ok_kidd; 05-28-2011 at 04:27 PM.

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    HayZee518's Avatar
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    after you clean the molex connector [plug] because the socket end is a little difficult to stick anything inside, spray the connector with wd-40. WD-40 displaces moisture.

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    Dan O.'s Avatar
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    cut [connector] out and spliced the wires.
    That might cause extra work should the doors ever have to be removed in future. Trying to keep the connector and get it functioning properly again would be the ideal repair.

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

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    hjmangalam is offline New Member
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    more detail

    Quote Originally Posted by ok_kidd View Post
    found the connection- made sure the wires were snug-cleaned as much as I could without disconnecting-corrosion definitely appears to be the problem-30 minute fix is about right- saved a bunch of money- ice and water now work just fine- thanks for your help
    Same problem here. But! Is the connector IN the freezer door or in the wiring that goes from the door into the bottom of the appliance. ie what do I have to remove? the entire inside of the freezer door or the bottom of the appliance?

    And if it's the inside of the freezer door, how? Is the flexible seal keeping it on? Or are there hidden screws somewhere?

    Thanks very much in advance.
    Harry

    PS. Found the answer to this myself as I was poking around in the gizzards of the thing. The connector that is the reason for us all being here is behind the air grate at the very bottom of the fridge. The grate comes off with 1 screw at each side. Once off, you can see the wires, molex connect, and the water hose that runs into the freezer door.

    The wires are fairly tight, but it's not a huge problem to clip off the molex, and twist-lock the wires together.. One thing to note is that the reason the wires corroded is that the plastic tube that is supposed to protect the wires actually directs condensate down the wires into the connector, hence the problem. So I cut the tube back as far as possible and set the re-connected wires as high as possible to prevent it from happening again.

    Thanks to all who helped sort this out.
    Last edited by hjmangalam; 06-26-2011 at 11:53 PM. Reason: found the answer

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