GE 'fridge is not working...

[mrcaptainbob]

Well, almost. At least the light turns on. GE GSS25JFMCWW, serial FD244841.
We had a power failure today. Many things got fried. Along with several tv's, microwave, etc. we found the 'fridge is also not working. We now have it uplugged. Is it possible it will 'reset' itself? What might I do to diagnose where the issue is? Should I just get a new board? How might I check the compressor to verify it's still working? Today was not a good day.

[Dan O.]

** GE GSS25JFMCWW **

That is one of GE's newer electronically controlled refrigerator models.

** We now have it unplugged. Is it possible it will 'reset' itself? **

On electronically controlled appliance models sometimes unplugging them for 1-2 minutes will 'reboot' the control's software.

The compressor will also have an overload protector. If the compressor overheated or drew too much current, it might trip and shut the compressor off but eventually reset in 5-10 minutes to allow the compressor to try to run again.

** How might I check the compressor to verify it's still working? **

Are any of the fridge's fans running? If the control was telling the compressor to run, those fans should be running too. The compressor should never be running without those fans running at the same time.

** Should I just get a new board? **

About the only time I would suggest someone just replace the board without any kind of testing would be if there were visible signs of failure (burnt components, burnt circuit traces, etc.) on the board itself.

LINK > GSS25JFMCWW Main Control Board Asm.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

Left the 'fridge unplugged overnight. Plugged it back in this morn and it's still not running. No fans, no motor. Only the lights work. Will roll it out Friday eve and check for any abberations such as the 'tracking' as you suggest, Dan O. While I'm in there, is there a way to verify the compressor working? Suppose there's no obvious signs? Are there key points on a circuit board to check? What might a board for something like this run? A couple hundred bucks? Would like to verify compressor integrity before investing in board.

[HayZee518]

bob take a ride to home depot or lowes and invest a cupla bucks in an ideal clamp around ammeter. this way if you should ever need to measure amps, the clamp around will give you this. some even have a resistance range switch on them.

[Dan O.]

** is there a way to verify the compressor working? **

If it were running it should have at least some vibration to it. Power to it might also be able to be checked to see if it even should be running or not.

** Would like to verify compressor integrity before investing in board. **

Even if the compressor was bad, the fans should still be running if the fridge was calling for cooling. Just a problem in the compressor wouldn't affect them so it is my guess that it is likely the control not powering either.

** Suppose there's no obvious signs? Are there key points on a circuit board to check? **

If there are they may be described in the unit's 'tech sheet' which should accompany the fridge's wiring diagram.

** What might a board for something like this run? **

It's actually not too pricey at the moment (considering what other appliance electronic controls go for)

LINK > GSS25JFMCWW Main Control Board Asm.

(I thought I supplied a link to that component previously?)

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

Well, by the looks of it so far, it appears it is the board. Some brown liquid oozed from the panel when removed. There are two cans who's tops are crowned and where it appears the ooz is coming from. I'll now order that and hope the compressor's not shot.

[Dan O.]

Is that actually a picture of the board on your fridge?? I noticed it's dated February of 2005 and doesn't' show any visible problems although not actually a close up.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[mrcaptainbob]

Yes, Dan O, that's the 'fridge board as it sets on the back. I'll try tomoorw to get a closeup of the two cans (they're the largest and almost centered top to bottom) that are leaking. They're about the size of C batteries. Also took this opportunity to dink around with that ice maker door solenoid. The plunger had some corrosion on it. Sure wish they'd use stainless screws and such in places that have moisture and condesation. It's pitiful to see the rusty screws inside that area. I'd be willing to chuck a few extra dollars for a handleful of these when tossing a grand for an appliance.
Anyway, I'm about to order parts here, so, thanks again for the help.

[HayZee518]

you see the tops of those capacitors? see how they're bulged? they are definitely leaking their dielectric. those aluminum cans bulge when they overload when they develop an anode to cathode short. some have criss cross crosshatch pattern on them so they actually blow outward because of internal pressure. if you can make out the values replace them from radio shack. make sure the rating in microfarads are the same. you can use those with the same or higher operating voltage.

[mrcaptainbob]

Ha! NOW ya tells me! Well, HayZee, as good an idea as that is ( I do like experimenting), Wife wants it done a lot sooner than that. But, I just may go ahead and try that anyway and try swapping the boards back at a future time, like maybe AFTER the holidays! I'm not that good at electronic stuff, but that seems easy enough to do. AM wondering, though, would those cans be the items that keep power from everything else? Again, the only thing working is the inside light. Are those cans like fuses/transformers? Would hate to do that and find it just leads to the next weak link....although...we ARE just experimenting from this point on...