GE Arctica Refridgerator, PSS26MSRB SS, water tray leaking, and other questions

[Jason B]

Ok, here is the latest. I ordered the new electric water valve that you posted and it came in today.


(They looked almost identical, except the new valve had a longer mounting plate, and some kind plastic shroud around the top)

I installed it, crossed my fingers, it still leaks! : ) I read all your replies again. I could never get to that valve in the basement to check to see if it was a drilll type or self piercing. I had called the previous owner who built the house months ago, and was told it was a drilll type.

I removed some of the drop ceilng panels to try to find this thing to see for myself. Also, I noticed a KINK in the line, right before the shutoff valve. I cut out the kink, and made the line go straight into the valve:



This seemed to fix the leak, which led me to believe this kink caused the issue. So, as a test I then put the old electric valve back in, and it leaked again. So, I thought maybe it was a combination of the kink and the old electric valve. SO, lastly, I put the new electric valve back in, and now it's still leaking again! I checked all connections, swaped them both out a few times, and it's still leaking. Argh.

Here you can see what happens after filling a big glass of water: video I made of leak, .mpg

I really don't know how to tell if the valve in the basement is a self pieceing or not. Maybe these pics will help you. Also, I'm on a Well here, and the well tank has 25 gpm written on it, which I thought was pretty good, as most people in this neighborhood get 8-15.

Suggestions?

Also, here is a pic of the back of the fridge.

[Jason B]

Also, another note. The water filter inside the fridge is a "gwf". I saw there is a newer filter out called the "mwf". I haven't change the gwf flter as the previous owner had the water turned off on the Fridge for the 2 years he lived in the house. So, yea that gwf filter has been in there for two years, but there wasn't water going through it until I moved in 6 months ago, so I think.

[Dan O.]

The water filter is in line after the main fridge's water valve so even IF it needed replacing
it shouldn't create your symptom.

I can not tell what type of saddle valve that is either.

** ...has 25 gpm written on it **

Hopefully it is working that well because that pressure is borderline to begin with for a
refrigerator water valve's operation.

Sorry but I have no other ideas. I would think either the water supply pressure is not high
enough or the saddle valve might be the problem.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Thanks. I also just found out that I have a contstant pressure pump for the well, and it's set at 60 psi.

[Dan O.]

** it's set at 60 psi. **

As long as it is working up to that it should be more than sufficient pressure.

Did you ever actually test the water pressure coming out of the the fridge's water
supply line? I can't see the problem being anywhere else.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Originally Posted by Dan O.

** it's set at 60 psi. **

As long as it is working up to that it should be more than sufficient pressure.

Did you ever actually test the water pressure coming out of the the fridge's water
supply line? I can't see the problem being anywhere else.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

Another update. I just took off the saddle valve to look at it and it IS the self piercing type. I took it off, then put it back on, still drips at the fridge of course.

Tomorrow, I'm buying this:

Part Details - SEA Saddle drill tap valve, part number: STV2D (any tip on how to keep metal shavings from getting into the pipe?)

Now, the only test I did weeks ago, was seeing if there was pressure to fill a bucket, but that's it. Tell me exactly what I need to do to test it by your method?

Am I on the right track now?

[Dan O.]

** any tip on how to keep metal shavings from getting into the pipe? **

Very little should go into the pipe, most should be forced out via the bit's grooves.
But you could always run water through into a bucket before connecting it to the
fridge just in case.

** Tell me exactly what I need to do to test it by your method? **

Time how long it takes a specific amount of water to flow though it, then calculate
how much would flow in a minute. If it took 15 seconds to approximately fill a 5 gallon pale,
the water flow rate would be 20 GPM (60 seconds/15 seconds x 5 gallons = 20 GPM).
If it took 5 seconds to approximately fill a 5 gallon pale, the water flow rate would be
60 GPM (60 seconds/5 seconds x 5 gallons = 60 GPM).

Maybe a before and after test to see the actual difference?

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Originally Posted by Dan O.

Time how long it takes a specific amount of water to flow though it, then calculate how much would flow in a minute.

Dan O

Ok, now "where" do I do this test at??? I know that the pipe the saddle valve is on, is the pipe that comes from the kitchen faucet. Do I do the test there? Or do I remove the water line from the back of the fridge and do it there?

[Dan O.]

** do I remove the water line from the back of the fridge and do it there? **

Since it is the water pressure getting to the fridge's water valve that is important, yes.
Although if you're replacing the saddle valve anyway, it is academic. Maybe for your own
(and others) curiosity checking it before and after the change might be interesting?

BTW. If you're installing the new valve in a different location than the original, only install
it on the top side of a horizontal pipe or the side of a vertical pipe. Mounting on the underside
can allow sediment to accumulate it it more easily leading to possible water flow problem
again in the future.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Great, thanks again. I really appreciate all your quick replies. I'm knew at this, but feel I've learned a lot. I'm a car guy, not a plumber, but like to do things myself sometimes. I do thank you.

I'm going to put the new valve on the same "vertical pipe" that the old one was on, and just am going to make the hole bigger with a 1/4" drill bit. Putting it in the same spot as the old one show below:



It's funny how small the hole was that the self piercing valve made. Super small.

I'm going to try putting the NEW drill type valve on later tonight, and will see if I can measure the gpm before and after.