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Thread: GE Artica Refrigerator too cold on warmest setting

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    Andrew_B is offline New Member
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    GE Artica Refrigerator too cold on warmest setting

    I have a GE Profile Arctica PSS25MGNA that I bought in 2003. It was relatively trouble free until the past few weeks when the first symptom I noticed was a frozen water line leading to the reservoir that caused the door water dispenser to stop functioning.

    After thawing out the line and restoring functionality, I've turned the temperature settings for the refrigerator and freezer to their warmest settings (digital 1).

    I continued to have intermittant trouble with frozen water reservoir lines and put a thermometer inside the unit to verify the temperature. I found at its warmest setting the refrigerator was still getting down to 30-31 degrees at the bottom where the reservoir is.

    Previously I had the refrigerator set to temperature level 4.

    Since this unit is long out of warranty, does anyone know how much it might be to repair the thermostat part so I get a usable temperature range again?

    I assume it's part of some main board that would probably need to be replaced but at this point I don't want to throw hundreds of dollars at it unless it starts freezing all of my food.

    I can live without a door water dispenser but I suspect that the problem isn't going to get any better on its own and I might as well look into fixing it myself if it's possible.

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    HayZee518's Avatar
    HayZee518 is offline Deity
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    go to the site repairclinic dot com and find your fridge and its related parts. here you'll find the replacement cost.

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    Dan O.'s Avatar
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    I found at its warmest setting the refrigerator was still getting down to 30-31 degrees at the bottom where the reservoir is.
    How about higher up in the compartment? Poor air circulation through the compartment can lead to colder than normal temperatures just at the lower part of it.

    Also, some models feed the drawers with cold air separately. If the drawers weren't installed correctly or there was a problem with the sealing of them against their ducts, that extra cold air leakage would cause the lower section to be colder than it should, often freezing the water reservoir. GE came out with a kit (see the following link) to try to help prevent it.

    LINK > GE Refrigerator Drawer Sealing Kit

    does anyone know how much it might be to repair the thermostat part so I get a usable temperature range again?
    That model is electronically controlled, it doesn't use a typical thermostat.

    I assume it's part of some main board that would probably need to be replaced
    I doubt the board itself would be responsible (although may be a possibility). It could however be caused by one of its temperature thermistors (temperature sensors) failed or an improperly operating air damper (see the link below).

    LINK > GE PSS25MGNA Damper Asm. w/Thermistor

    GE had a big problem with the damper door breaking on the components used in early production of their electronically controlled fridge models resulting in basically uncontrollable temperatures in the food compartment. The replacement currently available is suppose to be redesigned to correct for that shortcoming in the original design.

    GE brings good things to life?

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

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    Last edited by Dan O.; 11-10-2008 at 01:52 AM.

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    Andrew_B is offline New Member
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    This model does feed cold air into the lower drawer directly. Could I tape up and block off this cold air output without damaging anything in the refrigerator?

    I imagine that blocking off the lower vents will make more air come out of the higher vents, but it would at least give me a good test as to whether to buy the drawer sealer kit or the damper assembly.

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    Dan O.'s Avatar
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    Could I tape up and block off this cold air output without damaging anything in the refrigerator?
    I wouldn't think it would do any permanent damage to the appliance but might make balancing the compartment temperatures more difficult.

    I might however suggest you first see if you can determine if there might be a problem with the damper. At least with it the failure might be visible making a positive indicator of something which needs correcting rather than just guessing with the other possible avenue.

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

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    Last edited by Dan O.; 11-10-2008 at 01:42 PM.

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