Kenmore fridge too warm-defrost working

[Rick Cain]

It is a model 363.8587781 side by side. I had noticed that the lowest the fridge side could get was 45* and sometimes more like 54*. I pulled the freezer partition as I did see frost around top area. There is 3 main sets of evap coils, and the top coil had ice encasement while lower 2 sets of coils were frost free. I turned timer and got defrost heaters to go and they got hot. I got a hair dryer to remove ice from that top coil. Now it is cooling fast and ive noticed heat between doors. Ive also cleaned coils that werent very dusty. I did notice a brown out in power about 3 months ago... it was so bad that it scrambled my microwave display the same day. I think that may be when problem started, but I dont hear any bad compressor sounds. Is compressor maybe damaged from that brown out day? Low on freon? Is it worth putting in freon and is there a schrader valve to tap? Also , what gas is in it? Thanks alot.
Rick in Alabama

[Dan O.]

There is 3 main sets of evap coils, and the top coil had ice encasement while lower 2 sets of coils were frost free.

That's bad.

The evaporator (cooling) coil should be frosting uniformly across its whole surface. Uneven frosting is usually a sign of a refrigeration system problem (see the following link).

LINK > My frost free refrigerator is not cooling properly. What might be the problem?

Is compressor maybe damaged

If the evaporator coil is still frosting unevenly after being manually defrosted, that is a possibility yes.

Low on freon?

That is also a possibility, yes, although less likely IMO.

Is it worth putting in freon

Refrigerant is never needed unless there is a hole in the refrigeration system. It can not be 'recharged' until the hole is found and sealed. If such a leak was in an easily accessible area and the rest of the appliance was still in decent shape and the fridge was not just a bottom of the line model, it could be worthwhile to have that $125-$200+ job done to it.

BTW. The sealed refrigeration system (which includes both the refrigerant and compressor) may be warranted for up to 5-years (see the following link). Check your owner's manual or warranty papers if its age is close.

LINK > Limited Appliance Warranties

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Rick Cain]

Thanks so much Dan-O. Ill read the links u gave. But can u say about how much a new compressor would be? It doesnt make any bad noise, and after defrosting (more like de-icing ) that upper coil, it has been 3 days and temps are great on both sides. Fridge side is as low as 35. Should i wait about a few weeks and pull the cover to look at evap coils again? As mentioned, this problem may have coincided when there was a day with 3 brown outs. But seems like compresor would just burn up if it was from that, right? Or maybe it has a winding that is burned and slowing it down? Altho it sounds fine.
Thanks again!

[HayZee518]

brown outs are caused by the utility doing what is called "load shedding." they operate the line at a reduced output of about 90 volts. machinery that is designed to operate at 120 volts or higher would heat up because they try to supply the same load at a reduced voltage. the start winding or even the run winding would burn out. refrigerators are very picky if they don't equalize pressures before being restarted.

[Dan O.]

Should i wait about a few weeks and pull the cover to look at evap coils again?

The coils could be inspected an hour or more after defrosting to see how the frost pattern is developing. Just make sure it isn't too soon after a defrosting or all the coils could be bare and not give an accurate indication.

this problem may have coincided when there was a day with 3 brown outs. But seems like compresor would just burn up if it was from that, right?

Not necessarily, no. A power shortage could damage the compressor internally, contaminating the refrigeration system and resulting in cooling problems only, not total failure.

Or maybe it has a winding that is burned and slowing it down?

The compressor would not run with one of its windings totally open (aka 'burnt out').

can u say about how much a new compressor would be?

If the compressor was no longer covered by warranty, replacing it could easily be $350+ and seldom worthwhile unless a very expensive refrigerator model to replace.


JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Rick Cain]

The brown outs lasted about 3-4 seconds and were caused on a windy day, so i guess it was not load shedding.
Re compressor repair vs value, its a Kenmore 27 made in 1988 side by side so I guess its not out of the question that its got some miles on it and not worth fixing., I do have ac experience and would like to save it. Property tax is due this month !! Would unit have a shrader valve for charging? And is contamination from a compressor failure a deal breaker? Would it use R-22? I know cars still used R12 in 1980's and i do have some in automotive sized cans. I assume compressr is sweated in. Anyway, unit still is cooling great, and still heats up metal between doors, also coils are nice and hot. Makes me hope that the iced evap was just a fluke, but I doubt it. Also, i did notice that after the day of deicing and turning it back on, the top evap coil was slower to frost/cool. And that was the one that had the ice block to begin with. Thanks guys. Dan, I bet ill be too lazy to look at evap until it starts messing up again.
PS- Do yall remember a fridge called Leonard? It was made by good ole Rambler/AMC (American Motors Corp). I grew up with it from 1965 or so , and it was running when we left it at our old house in 1986! Ive got 2 AMC cars BTW, and love them. But hec, i guess thats about how old this Kenmore is at this point.

[HayZee518]

I doubt that there would be a schrader valve on it - most if not all were assembly line products and they just used the "process tube" to fill the system and clamped and brazed it shut. more expensive units that used a copeland compressor would have access valves on both the high side and low side. R-22 was used mostly on air conditioners as R-12 was used mostly on auto air conditioners and refrigeration units because of the lower boiling point of the freon.

[Dan O.]

Would unit have a shrader valve for charging?

Not unless the refrigeration system was serviced previously. They are totally sealed when they leave the factory.

Would it use R-22?

Usually R12 or R134a (if newer) but it will be stated on the appliance's identification tag.

And is contamination from a compressor failure a deal breaker?

It is time consuming and messy to correct and sometimes not even possible. It requires the whole refrigeration system to be flushed and then recharged and of course, usually the compressor to be replaced as well.

Anyway, unit still is cooling great

We'll keep our fingers crossed for you.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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