View Full Version : Knocking down interior non-load bearing walls, Pictures and Questions...

11-23-2007, 09:47 PM
I am turning our 3rd bedroom into the dinning room. The first picture is looking in the now dinning room into the back side of the kitchen. You can see I tore most of the old wall out and turned it into a half wall the will over look the stairs.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8962/picture008bk2.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture008bk2.jpg)

This is a picture looking the other way (into the now dinning room from the back side of the kitchen). I also want to tear the opening on the other side going into the hallway. I am planning on doing it all the way to the ceiling and about to the left edge of the clock.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3889/picture009im8.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture009im8.jpg)

This picture is looking from the hallway into the dinning room (the wall I explained above I want to take down). Wanted to take a picture of the ceiling to get a better view.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5201/picture010uh2.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture010uh2.jpg)

This is in the same hallway only looking at the floor for detail.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2306/picture011pz0.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture011pz0.jpg)

Now my questions...

-In the first picture you can see the dinning room has texture and the ceiling I am finishing over the stairs and kitchen do not, it is smooth. I understand the best would be to make the texture match the dinning room or scrape the dinning room and hallway and make it smooth to match the kitchen. I was wondering if anyone had an easier/better idea? If I do some sort of thresh-hold/barrier it would have to be at least 4.5" thick on the hallway side (framing and sheetrock thickness).
-My next question is similar only pertaining to the floor, again, the thresh-hold would have to be at least 4.5" thick. My floors are real oak hardwood. I just finished a new laminate floor in the kitchen so on that side it would only have to be about 3" thick. I went as far as possible with the amount of laminate I had.

11-24-2007, 07:04 AM
so there's a step between the two floors?

11-24-2007, 10:44 AM
No, they are all on the same level. The stairs are going down to the basement.

11-24-2007, 11:36 AM
so find a piece of oak at least the 4.5 or 5 inches wide and plane it so it angles away from center and nail that between the two rooms. the angles are up top and its flat on the bottom.

11-24-2007, 02:43 PM
That is what I was thinking too. Any ideas on the ceiling?

11-27-2007, 07:28 PM

What if I used a piece of cheap pine, same width as my floor threshold and painted it white (1X6 left square)? I am worried that will look really cheap.

On the kitchen side where the texture ceiling meets the smooth ceiling...some sort of trim piece painted white?

Any ideas?


11-27-2007, 07:38 PM
just use the existing sheetrock surface and feather out the texture so it meets the smooth -or- consider popcorning the smooth, or even a shallow texture on the smooth ceiling.

11-27-2007, 08:06 PM
My concern is if I try and spray it that I will never be able to match the exsisting texture. Therefore, you will be able to see a distinct line in the ceiling.

11-27-2007, 08:25 PM
there is a popcorn finish in an aerosol can. for patch work. this mis-match will always be bugging you even after the project is finished. texturing one finish into a smooth surface is possible like feathering out a sheetrock joint - do it gradually. use sheetrock mud and a sponge or whatever they used for the texture.

11-27-2007, 10:28 PM
ok, I'll give it a try.