View Full Version : Egress Window In Basement.

05-28-2008, 12:17 PM
I want to take out the extremely small window in my basement and install an egress window. Eventually this is being turned into a bedroom.

Here is my idea of how to do this, is this correct?..

-Dig and install new window well
-Take out old window and expose cinder block wall
-Cut out rough opening 3.5" larger than window size with 12" diamond blade saw.
-Build a frame out of pressure treated 2X4s on all 4 sides; caulk and anchor to blocks with tapcons or hammer expansion anchors.
-Install new window with shims and screw into 2X4 framing.
-Spray expanding foam around window and caulk.

Is it as easy as that?

What type of window well do you recommend, I saw a few different types last time I looked.

How do I finish the outside of the window? You will see block, caulk, 2X4, window flange, correct?

Anything else?

05-28-2008, 04:33 PM
Dan check out this URL for egress windows
Installing Basement Egress Windows: Planning and Preparation | Basements and Attics | Reader's Digest (http://www.rd.com/18117/article18117.html)

06-08-2008, 02:28 PM
I finally got a chance to print it off and read through it, good tutorial. I took note that they stuffed the cinder block with newspaper and then used morter to fill the cinder block holes.

I also found this tutorial...
Egress Window Guy: Step by Step Guide on Installing an Egress Window (http://www.egresswindowguy.com/howto.html)

If you scroll down you will see that he fills the holes with fiberglass insulation and then uses 50yr Vulken Titanium (I assume this is caulk?) on the block edges and then attaches his wood frame.

Is either way acceptable? It seems the fiberglass insulation would be easier and quicker.


06-18-2008, 11:40 PM
Ok, I am going to start this on Saturday. I think I got all the parts now but have a question.

What type and size of fastners do I use to attach the metal egress well to my cinder block? I am sure the block is hallow and standard 8".


06-19-2008, 04:30 AM
TAPCONS always worked for me in concrete [cinder block] construction. go right through the face, not the mortar joints, with the masonary drill. the mortar joints only "stick" the blocks together. it doesn't really support any "holding" power.

06-19-2008, 08:13 AM
Ok, I may have to call the city because I was told they will fail inspection if Tapcons are used. I was told that sleeve bolts should work but have heard other things as well.

One other question, the window will be installed on a wall that runs parallel to the floor joists. I do not need to build an elaberate header, do I? I was just going to use 2X10s Pressure Treated (width cut to 8") on all 4 sides of the window frame, is that ok? One thing I should mention is even though this wall runs parallel to my floor joists, my roof peak is in the middle so all the ext walls bear load. If I should do a header, how should I construct it around the 8" block?


06-19-2008, 09:59 AM
why don't you call the building inspector? he's got the last word anyway. don't go second guessing him. Golden Hill must have a building inspector.....

06-19-2008, 11:16 AM
I just talked to an inspector. He said no header is needed and no fastners are needed. This seems suprising to me. I will use some tapcons as extra insurance that it won't warp or move when back-filling.

For the pressure treated frame I will rip 2X10s to 8" and lay them flat on all 4 sides.

Sound good?

Also wondering what size tapcons you recommend? 3/16 or 1/4" what length? Thanks

06-20-2008, 10:32 AM
Is it as easy as that?

What type of window well do you recommend, I saw a few different types last time I looked.

How do I finish the outside of the window? You will see block, caulk, 2X4, window flange, correct?

Anything else?

I done one of these not long ago.
We used a window that mounted right to the cinderblock on the outside wall. It was a nice clean fit.
The window was made for this type of application.
Get your window first. It should come with some metal trims for the inside.

We used large angle iorn above it as a header.
On the inside.
But we didn't have lots of room.
The wall went from 8" block to 12" we made a nice step shelf at the bottom, on the inside..
Also we installed a drain at the bottom of our window well, That was kind of important. We built the well out of treated 6x6's.
I don't know how far you have to dig down on the outside. You may have to cut some of the water proofing if so be very careful about sealing it back.
Hang plastic on the inside from the cieling to the floor all around your work space. Besides the concrete saw. You will need dust mask. A chipping or hammer drill would be help full, and a Large canister vacume.

Do an image search for egress window on google. You can get some nice ideas.

06-22-2008, 10:08 AM
I cut my block and everything is going great. I am using a worm gear with a diamond blade and then a Hilti Combihammer. My block is actually 12" but is not pored. What should I use for my treated frame? I was going to use 2X10 pressure treated and ripped to 8" but since my block is 12" I don't know what to do. Home Depot doesn't make 12" wide treated lumber. Please help, I leave for a business trip tomorrow and want to get the window in today. Thanks!

06-22-2008, 10:51 AM
use 2x10"s and rip them both dwn to 6" that way the join is right in the middle. Now if you have a continious gap right down the center of your cnder blocks as sometimes happen when you cut them, rip down two different sizes allowing for both pieces to be fastened to block. (for example one might be 4" and the other 8" wide)

For ease, use your 2x12 (actual size 1 1/2 x 11 1/2) flush it to the outside and later when your doing your window trim add in the extra 1/2" piece you need on the inside.

06-22-2008, 05:35 PM
Ok, I was in a rush and did indeed get 2X12. The actual dimensions were 1 11/16 by 11 3/4. I don't know if the mills were off but it worked out great. My block actually measured 11 7/8 so it is almost perfect. Thanks, I am almost done!

06-22-2008, 08:21 PM
dimension lumber is always smaller than mill cut lumber. a mill cut 2X4 measures exactly 2 inches by 4 inches. boards are usually 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch then they are planed down to 3/4 or 5/8.

06-24-2008, 11:04 AM
I know mill cut is always on, I guess I should have worded it differently.

2 X lumber at stores should always be 1.5"
4 should be 3.5"
6 should be 5.5"
8 should be 7.5"

Most of the pieces at HD were indeed 1.5 X 11.5". The pieces I found were larger, maybe swelled from being wet? At any rate it worked out great and got it done. Thanks

06-25-2008, 04:12 PM
What do you think?

The window is offset from the well because of code width restrictions when the window is fully open.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4457/photo0025lv1.th.jpg (http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photo0025lv1.jpg)

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6071/photo0028pv8.th.jpg (http://img511.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photo0028pv8.jpg)

I have a couple questions on framing the outside of the window. I was planning on using 1X4 pressure treated for the trim. A bead of caulk would be applied in the joint where the pressure treated 2X12 window frame and cinder block meet. What procedure should be used on the trim (additional caulk or other)?


06-25-2008, 09:14 PM
Looking good, your on the home run now.
If it were me I'd apply a bead of caulk to the trim where it touches the cinder blocks as well. After you have nailed it and it dries come back and add one more bead to the very edge of the trim against the cinder block just to make sure you have sealed it off and it makes it looks pretty.

06-26-2008, 08:30 AM
Thanks, what about the edge of the trim on the window side, caulk there too?

Should I make 45* cuts or do it like J channel would be done...


06-26-2008, 05:30 PM
If your house is "Craftsman " style then you'd just put one over the top and the verticals would just but up to it, otherwise I'd miter the corners.
Yes put a bead of caulk on the window side of the trim as well.