radial arm

[Errol Goodman]

can anyone one tell me how to ensure a clean cut on the underside when using a raial arm. I currently find the cut tends to splinter and not be clean.

[HayZee518]

the radial arm cuts with the blade rotating towards you, the user. if you put wide masking tape along the line of cut, splintering would be reduced. put the tape on both sides.

[rk_king2004]

Flip the board over when you cut

[mrcaptainbob]

Same thing happened to mine. Found two things: it was imperative to use the best quality cabinet quality blade possible. Something that's thin, heat controlled and SHARP. THe second was to square away the saw blade angles. Found the kerf was fuzzy to one side. THat got me to thinkin'...Tape helped, but only to a point. Found the blade was not exactly parallel with the arm. It was almost to the micro adjustment stage, but kept at it to align and square the arm with the fence, the table perpendicular to the post travel, and most importantly to keep the blade parallel with the arm travel. Finally got it dialed in and was pleased with it. Also had to use a VERY slow feed rate when cutting bevels as the blade had a tendancy to climb and consequently alter the otherwise straight line. This was using a vintage Ward's 10" from about the late 60's.

[HayZee518]

Gentlemen, a radial arm saw was never meant to be a precision piece of equipment when it comes to cabinet making. Tablesaw, yes, but not the radial arm. It is the most hazardous piece of equipment when it comes to ripping a board. With the head almost to its outward travel and adjusted at right angles to the ripfence, the blade has a tendency to ride up on top of the work, not cutting it! [and taking your fingers with it!] Take a look in any lumber yard and you'll ssee the radial arm doing nothing but cross cutting. A very sharp carbide blade will lessen the amount of splintering but even after two cuts the blade starts to get dull. wood with little or no moisture splinters greatly.

[mrcaptainbob]

Yep. Hayzee, I couldn't agree more. I inherited a SHopsmith a few years ago. A later issue 510. Am very impressed with it's accuracy and fine cut. Had expected less. That adjustable quill is great!!

[benhummell]

Make sure that your blade is sharp, and is a crosscut blade, not a rip blade.
This will minimize the tearing. Another trick is to make a score with a razor knife along the line of your cut.

[HayZee518]

find a carbide blade thatr has its teeth slightly thicker than the blade body. its the wood fibers rubbing against the blade disk that's causing the splinters

[detritusmaximus]

I have found one of the best ways to prevent splintering (table saws, radial arm saws, routers, drills, almost anything) is to have a backer board. Lay a piece of 1/4" plywood or mdf on your saw surface, then place the piece you intend to cut. If you line up everything real nice and clamp it, you can place a board on both sides of the piece you are cutting. This gives the are on either side of the cut plenty of support. Splintering won't happen if there is nowhere for the splinter to go, so it helps even with an older, not so sharp blade.
This same technique is wonderful when cutting thin material (like laminate or veneer on a table saw (especially cheap saws that do not allow for a throat plate around the blade).