120v off one leg of 220v

[Luv2Q]

I have a 220v circuit (12-2 with ground wire) and would like to make a 120v branch off of one leg and the ground. I also want to keep the 220v circuit live.

Since the 12-2+G 220 circuit will still be in use, I don't have a way to run a neutral back to the panel but will have the ground.

So, 2 questions:
a) Will this work? (Without anyone being in danger!)
b) If yes, how should the 120 branch be wired? Neutral and ground both going to the ground in the 220 feeder circuit?

Thx in advance for any replies. (BTW, I did try to research this using the search link .. some questions/answers were close but not quite the same.)

Another "by the way": I'm in a rural area where "code" doesn't exist and need this branch just for a hookup for an RV.

[Piper]

Based on what little information you provided I would say no.

What is the load on the current 220V circuit? Watts or Amp draw

How many feet is it from the breaker box to the 220V load?

What is the load of your rv?

What size breaker feeds the existing Circuit?

[Luv2Q]

Originally Posted by Piper

Based on what little information you provided I would say no.

Your questions in italics, followed by my answers.

What is the load on the current 220V circuit? Watts or Amp draw
Ans: Currently, there's no load on the 220V circuit. Once used for a deepwell pump which is no longer in use.

How many feet is it from the breaker box to the 220V load?
Ans: Approv 75' to the 220 outlet.

What is the load of your rv?
Ans: 120V, 30 Amp

What size breaker feeds the existing Circuit?
Ans: 30 Amp


Thx

[Snoonyb]

Originally Posted by Luv2Q

Another "by the way": I'm in a rural area where "code" doesn't exist

I'm sure, were you to suffer a loss as the result of to large a breaker for the max. current carrying capability of the conductor, your insurance company would find that refreshing.

Your existing situation is good for A) 20A, 240V, B) an 20A, 120V.

Back to your original.
1) How is this circuit wired?
Is it direct burial?
Is it in PVC?
Is it in metallic piping?

[Luv2Q]

Originally Posted by Snoonyb

I'm sure, were you to suffer a loss as the result of to large a breaker for the max. current carrying capability of the conductor, your insurance company would find that refreshing.

No need for sarcasm. I was mentioning the lack of code restrictions in a rural area simply because there are occasions when something that doesn't "meet code" works perfectly well. I'm here to try to get information so that the aforesaid loss doesn't happen. If I were already an expert, I wouldn't be bothering. Thanks for your input.

[Snoonyb]

Originally Posted by Luv2Q

I'm here to try to get information so that the aforesaid loss doesn't happen. If I were already an expert, I wouldn't be bothering. Thanks for your input.

And information you were provided.

Yet, the solution to your quest may lie in the unanswered question;
"1) How is this circuit wired?
Is it direct burial?
Is it in PVC?
Is it in metallic piping?"

[kactuskid]

What your currently have with the 12 gauge wire being protected by a 30 amp breaker is dangerous as it stands. Max breaker on this gauge wire should be 20 amps to prevent a fire.

And no way can you tap a 110 circuit from the existing 220 amp circuit and utilize them both at the same time. It's either one or the other. If you want a full 30 amps supplied to your RV then you'll have to run new 10 gauge wire, otherwise you can supply a 20 amp circuit utilizing the existing wire.

[HayZee518]

I agree totally with kactuskid. If your supply was a three wire with ground, that is a red, black, white and bare ground then you might get 120 off either phase and the white. Again 12/2 needs 20 amp not a 30 amp breaker. You mention that the bare ground goes tothe neutral buss in the main panel. You cannot utilize an equipment grounding conductor to suffice as a neutral.

[OMKEN]

You claim that you no longer need the 220V circuit, as the pump is no longer in service. If that is the case, I would simply replace the 2 pole breaker feeding the circuit with a 1P-20A breaker, move the white (neutral) conductor to the neutral bar and you will then have your 120V circuit and the proper rated breaker for the #12 wire.

I understand that you are in a rural "code less" area, but keep in mind that most of the time there are valid safety reasons for adhering to the code.

Good luck !

[HayZee518]

Just to add to the "code-less" portion of the thread, if you were to call your building inspector's office I'm sure he can direct you to a UL inspector who will suffice as an electrical inspector. I live in rural New York State where the same is true however there are UL inspectors in the area.