Home Repair Forum

Snoonyb · #11 (**permalink**) 12-03-2006, 09:16 PM

Correct.
In purchasing the new breaker, pay praticular attention to the slot that fits over the buss bar, some are limiting, replace it in kind.

HayZee518 · #12 (**permalink**) 12-04-2006, 11:04 AM

sounds to me that the breaker is coupled to another breaker using the "tie-bar" This is essentially a plastic or metal clip that joins two single pole breakers to form a double or two pole breaker. By using a tie bar it also tells me that the circuits the breaker feeds is probably a multi wire circuit, as in a three wire red, black and white circuit. the white is the common return for the two circuits. You'll have to buy an exact duplicate of the one you are removing to be able to include it under the tie bar.

ojaiguy · #13 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 09:25 PM

Hrm, I could have sworn that it was only the single black retained by the one screw. Are the others that you're saying are there beneath the breaker?

Sorry, this has been a crazy week and I'm only now getting back to this.

Thanks!

HayZee518 · #14 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 09:52 PM

no what I'm saying is that two single pole breakers can be installed in the panelbox and a tie bar is installed across the two handles making essentially a two pole breaker. If one side trips it is supposed to trip out the other one. AND usually a multi wire circuit is connected to a two pole breaker, so when you shut it off both circuits are off. a receptacle can be made a multi-wire circuit by breaking off the tab between the two brass screws and connected to a 12/3 romex. The white wire is the neutral for both circuits and each half receptacle is on a 20 amp or 15 amp breaker depending on how it is used. I believe you said that one half of the breaker isn't functioning.

leone184 · #15 (**permalink**) 12-18-2006, 07:29 PM

Holy cow guys, I'm all for saving money & doing it yourself, but it sounds like this guy is in way over his head. After reading all the posts, I think it would be a better idea for him to have an electrician take a look at both the breaker and the the box and the "repairs" that caused this mess.

ojaiguy · #16 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 09:12 PM

Heh, yeah, I was just headed out to re-visit this cause it's getting cold and I by the time I get home from work, it's dark and I've been out of town these last few weekends.

Anyway, it doesn't sound that hard but I also don't want to electrocute myself

If I can't get this on my own soon, I'll probably end up having to call someone in to get it taken care of but I'd naturally like to learn how to do this on my own (plus save the money).

So please stick with me if I have more annoying questions

Thanks again guys,

Carlos

HayZee518 · #17 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 09:28 PM

The following diagram shows two single pole breakers with a snap over tie bar. The other side shows the bottom side of two breakers. One has an elongated slot that snaps over the bus stab, the other one has a metal rejection clip. That one will only fit special panels that have a V shaped cut out in the bus stab.

ojaiguy · #18 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 09:56 PM

Ok, it looks like the box manufacturer is Crouse Hinds. I shut off the other breaker and put a wire nut on it and pulled the two together. You were right, HayZee, there is a tie bar binding the two together. I just took a couple photos:

http://tinyurl.com/y9ebxy (close up of Crouse Hinds name)
http://tinyurl.com/y8b6mk (the two breakers)
http://tinyurl.com/y2ftky (the tie bar)

I'll head off to Home Depot (I hope they have this type of thing) tonight and see if I can find a replacement.

Thanks again

ojaiguy · #19 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HayZee518

The following diagram shows two single pole breakers with a snap over tie bar. The other side shows the bottom side of two breakers. One has an elongated slot that snaps over the bus stab, the other one has a metal rejection clip. That one will only fit special panels that have a V shaped cut out in the bus stab.

Ah, I guess I misunderstood the tie bar definition as after looking at your diagram, that's not what this one has (as you can see in http://tinyurl.com/y8b6mk ). So is it possible to reset this breaker by removing the clips (as seen in http://tinyurl.com/y2ftky ) and doing something to it or is it just blown and needs to be replaced?

Thanks again guys!

HayZee518 · #20 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 10:12 PM

that rejection metal clip is part of the breaker it cannot be removed. doing so will destroy the breaker. When you get a replacement breaker, GE, Crouse-Hinds, Challenger, Westinghouse, Arrow-Hart will all fit that Crouse Hinds panel, check to see if there is a hole going through the breaker handle. once you install the breaker in the panel, you can take a piece of #10 and pass it through the holes in the handles effectively tying them together. re-connect up your original wires. - one per breaker.