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Old 03-08-2008, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCA1 View Post
I'm still getting some friction from another resource about this connection type, so....
Is there any real hazard with this type of connection?
Sounds fine to me. Who is giving you friction?
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:40 PM
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who exactly is giving you the flack? the wiring inspector? your peers ? (friends)
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:52 PM
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another forum like this, but not nearly as great as this one.
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:53 PM
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oh yea, thanks everyone.
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:00 PM
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Speedy is a contractor in upstate NY. He knows his stuff. I am a retired massachusetts electrician with a journeyman and master license. normel is another licensed electrician.
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:32 PM
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yea, when I started this thread I was looking forward to hearing from you HayZee and do appreciate your help. I don't visit this or any other forums that much since I finished the house but I still remember the names of those that helped me then. I'm not an electrician by any means and don't pretend to be so I always go for help with wiring questions, this time I just jumped the gun a little. I pulled the 6-3 from the panel way back when I built the house in case I ever wanted to use an electric range so I had that much already. With the price of CU wire these days, especially #6, I decided to go with AL instead. I'll have to say I feel much more at ease with this new connection than my first attempt thanks to you and speedy. I think now I'll go a little further with this to get your opinion on the rest of my work if you don't mind. I only pulled 3 Al wires to the shed panel and then drove a ground rod and grounded the panel. I'll need 46 Amps to feed my demands in this building(actually going to be a outdoor kitchen) which will be: A one bulb light fixture (1A) a microwave(12A), a blender (8A), a 6 gallon 120v water heater(13A), a gas range(3A) and a window 120v ac unit(9A)=46 total. I plan to use a 50A breaker in the main panel and feed 2 hots. I've had many outbuildings wired this way, without the bonding ground wire, but if need be I could use the red feed( by proving current in the panel with a tester one wire at the time, since the AL is not color coded) as a insulated ground right?, since I only need 46A's anyway, and just feed one side of the shed panel, right? I don't think our local code requires the bonding yet, but if so I could do it that way?
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:48 PM
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are these three wires that you spliced going to a sub panel?
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:10 AM
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In a sense I guess yes, I've never completely understood exactly what a sub-panel was and what if any factors separated different types of panels into categories other than sub panels. These wires that I spliced are feeding a panel (100A) mounted on this outbuilding, from a breaker(not yet installed) in the main panel of my house. I used the panel cause I knew of no other way to break 50A's into 3 15A circuits.
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:16 AM
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In this case, then, however your installation is illegal. to feed a sub panel you must use a four wire cable known as SER . Essentially it is a three wire cable with a wrapped ground - a white colored cable, a black one, a red one and the bare wrapped stands that make up the ground, plus a thermoplastic cover. if you are using seperate wires of no 6 in conduit you must run another bare ground from the main panelbox along with them in the same conduit to your sub panel. at the sub panel you isolate the neutral bus (i.e. no bonding screw) and a seperate grounding bar that the bare ground would go to. at the main panel both the bare ground and the white colored wire would go to ITS neutral bus bar. [this bus bar IS bonded to case ground.] Although your thought process seemed ok to make a splice in the feeder it does not meet code standards for a remote panel installation. don't rely on me alone, but if you run another bare ground to the sub it may qualify for a four wire to the sub. check with speedy pete before you complete this.
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:42 AM
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OK, thanks again, I can do that no problem. Now can you teach me something?
Why doesn't the neutral serve as a bonding wire? What extra protection does the bare ground bonding wire offer over the ground rod at the building? How?

Sorry to impose on your knowledge, but I'd like to learn.
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