house floor

[HayZee518]

I have a house circa 1950 I guess. Is it normal for the floors to bounce when someone walks across them? I can be about five feet from the center of a room and when someone walks across the room the floors definitely bounce. I think I'll have to crawl underneath and check out the joist ends (no cellar)

[mrcaptainbob]

I wouldn't consider that normal, HayZee518. My last place had joists on 16 center's as does this place. The last place did not have a noticeable bounce when walking across the floor. There was a bit of noticeable 'vibration' of 'stuff' on/in cabinets, but it was hardly noticeable. This place, however, is entirely different. I've noticed the 'movement' is quite pronounced as I walk through the kitchen, as well as two other rooms. That's on the main floor. The second floor hardly register's at all! Even when the 4 yr old grandson walks through the room, there's a noticeable 'bounce'! But the rooms that I just finished sistering up the floor joists are as rock solid as can be! I can JUMP on that floor and all there is is a slight vibration. The movement in the other rooms, by the way is not *along* the joists, but rather *stradling* them. As if the joist being walked on is moving relative to the 1, 2, or 3rd one over. I'm considering sistering up the rest of them to eliminate that issue. I'll be watching your post closely for Floorman's counsel.

[craignlisa]

If I could add my 2 cents,

I'll bet more than we three have "bouncy" floors. The project I'm working on has proved to me that the standard 2 x 10 joists on 12" centres are not good enough. You also need x-bridging and a good sub-floor to alleviate that problem. Another thing: I now GLUE and SCREW the sub-floor which is 3/4" MINIMUM to the joists. The nailing thing doesn't last (creaky floors seem to exist in that scenario). I'm a deck builder and our Montreal winters are quite harsh on anything made of wood (5 months of the year it's wintery weather). My deck floors are always screwed down-never nailed. Nailed flooring seperates after a year. To adhere a 3/4 or 1 inch sub-floor I use #8 x 2-1/2 or 3" deck screws. I now use this same hardware inside the home. The porcelin coated screws "drive" in much easier than flooring screws (battery drills last longer during a full day of flooring installs).

Craig

[mrcaptainbob]

Good 'adds'. I agree with the screwing instead of nailing. I found the spiral nails used decades ago were loose, as were some of the ringshanks. I used the stainless screws in the bath area, too. The 'x' bracings a great idea, too. In this old house they used the 2x_ block spacers. Same thing, just more difficult to thread stuff through.

[HayZee518]

Once I get out of this stupid ankle cast I'm gonna crawl underneath the house and see what I have to shore up the floor. The house is set on a stone foundation which in turn is on ledge. The timbers look to be half logs and rough cut lumber.

[mrcaptainbob]

Kind of an extreme measure to get of work. Or is it one of those casts with the white zipper? Not good to be laid up when you have so many pokes oin the fire, Hayzee! Hope you're on the mend.....

[HayZee518]

It's a solid fiberglass cast. Goes the whole foot to just below the knee. Doc says there are six permanent titanium screws in there and a long temporary going through the whole fibula - tibia joint. Long one's supposed to come out (shudder!) after three months.

[craignlisa]

Hay Zee,

I coulda fixed your leg with some 2 x 4 timber (cedar, of course) and some good porcelin-coated deck screws!

Craig

[mrcaptainbob]

What did you do to rate them/there high-falutin' titaniums? That sounds like a lot of pain! Are there any 'don't-do-this' cautions for those who can still perambulate?