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Thread: Replace house band joist

  1. #1
    flyguy is offline Handyman
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    Replace house band joist

    I need to replace the house band joist that was under the kitchen door and was eaten away by termites. The floor and some of the joists have been removed for the repair, so now is the time to do it. The siding is brick and can be seen from the interior.

    Question: what do I attach the new house band joist to? Do I use construction adhesive to attach it to the brick? It is parallel to the joists, so there aren't any joists attached to them.

    The walls above need the support.

    Thanks for any help!

    -- Mitch

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    thedcdude is offline Handyman
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    Doesn't the band joist sit on top of the block or concrete foundation walls?

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    HayZee518's Avatar
    HayZee518 is offline Deity
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    how do you anticipate getting to the joist with a brick fascia? that's kinda like putting the horse ahead of the cart!

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    flyguy is offline Handyman
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    I'll take a picture of it to post, but I've torn up the floor and removed the rotten joists. Basically, I'm standing on the dirt ground in the crawl space, looking at the inside of the kitchen door. I noticed that the house band joist sitting on top of the foundation (and below the door) was rotten (and termite-ridden) and needed replacing. When I removed it, I saw the brick exterior (from the inside). I need to replace the house band joist because it is supporting the frame exterior wall above it.

    My question is: do I need to attach it in some way to the inside of the brick or do I only need to make sure that it is attached to the wall above it? I think that the answer is probably the latter, but want to make sure.

    Thanks - I'm sorry if it's hard to describe or to envision.

  5. #5
    HayZee518's Avatar
    HayZee518 is offline Deity
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    what you have is a LOAD BEARING wall. the brick is there "just for looks." [I think.....] off hand, I'd say to remove the joist or fascia board you'd need to support the wall and anything above it to something solid. I had to do something similar to a wall that the main supporting beam was rotted and the whole wall was sagging. what I done was lag bolt a long 2x12x16ft to each stud along the whole wall from the outside, then jack up the 2x12 and place 4x4 posts on the ends, then lower the wall down on the posts. once everything was secure did I attempt to saw out the beam and remove it in pieces. the new beam went in from one end after a hole was cut in the end wall between the stud bottoms and the foundation. you might have to do something similar except you'd be working from the inside.

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    pushkins is offline General Contractor
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    If it's on the gable end of a home it may not be load bearing (other than wall weight), the fact you have it removed and the wall it still standing would/could suggest this.
    If it were me, I'd replace the piece with pressure treated lumber of the same size. To hold it in location you could attach it to either end of the existing (good section) of band with a piece of the same material lagged to the side. So basically your new band will have a piece lagged to it and to the side of the existing band. After you have it in place with the new flooring material down make sure you nail through the bottom plate of the wall into the new band board.
    A very good practice in this repair would to also add in a piece of treated lumber (2x material) as a sill plate first, naturally your band board would become 1 1/2" thinner.
    Nowadays it is required to have two in place on the parallel side of the floor joists, basically so the 2x4 wall above is sitting over the top of 3" of material not 1 1/2". As well all bearers and band boards must sit on a sill plate of 2x lumber pressure treated.
    Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
    Every day is a learning day.

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    flyguy (10-10-2009)

  9. #7
    flyguy is offline Handyman
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    Pushkins, That's exactly what I thought, except for the sill plate part which I will do. It's nice to have the reassurance.

    Thanks again,

    Mitch

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