Home Repair Forum

cvasold · #1 (**permalink**) 07-31-2005, 06:23 PM

The problem I am having is that when the door closes it stops when the door is about 20" from closing which just happens when the point of attachment that runs along the screw drive gets to the spot where the last section of screw drive meets the previous section. There is about 5/8" where there are no threads but the same is true on the previous section and the point of attachment goes past this without any problem. The screw keeps turning but the point of attachment looses it's grip. It looks like it is greased enough and there is not any slop. This just began happening about a week ago.
I would like to fix this myself and not have to call a repair guy so any help would be appreciated.

HayZee518 · #2 (**permalink**) 08-01-2005, 04:59 AM

My opinion is that the screw drive sections slide together with a pin to hold them aligned so that the threaded portion is continuous with no gaps. Check n see if this is not true. Wipe off the grease and take a good look. Seems as the trolley mechanism travels over this screw, if the threads do not line up it's binding on the screw. Once this is fixed you may have to adjust the up - down limits again.

cvasold · #3 (**permalink**) 08-01-2005, 01:15 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by HayZee518

My opinion is that the screw drive sections slide together with a pin to hold them aligned so that the threaded portion is continuous with no gaps. Check n see if this is not true. Wipe off the grease and take a good look. Seems as the trolley mechanism travels over this screw, if the threads do not line up it's binding on the screw. Once this is fixed you may have to adjust the up - down limits again.

Thanks for the reply, I will take a closer look and see if there any pins. The drive is in three sections with an identical span of no gear between the first and second section. The mechanism goes past this section without any problem. As soon as I get a chance I will start to take the whole unit apart as it appears that this is what I will have to do in order to take this piece off so I can see if it is worn to the point that it slops when the door is almost closed. I am guessing that at this point there is more torque required causing the slippage.
The other issue is that this is not my house and am doing this repair for a friend on her schedule which is usually an hour here and there.

SSN596 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-01-2005, 08:28 PM

The trolley which travels along the screw is notorious for having broken teeth. Normally, the length of the tooth bar on the trolley is long enough to span the gap at the screw joint. With broken teeth, however,it can essentiall " stall : at that point. The trolley is intentionally made of soft metal to protect the screw, but as a result is prone to these problems. Fortunately, the trolley is inexpensive and easily replaced.

dgail620 · #5 (**permalink**) 09-25-2005, 10:40 AM

I'm having the same issue with my garage door opener. I replaced the carriage/trolley a couple of years ago with the same problem. I just took the carriage off and the metal teeth are very worn down. I guess these don't last very long. I found one on Ebay for $19.25, shipping included.
I think mine is wearing down so fast because the whole mechanism vibrates horribly when it runs, and always has since I bought this house 4 yrs ago. Any idea what might be causing this? I can't believe this garage door opener has lasted this long, I've been expecting it to keel over 4 yrs ago.

HayZee518 · #6 (**permalink**) 09-27-2005, 06:17 AM

Maybe you could check into aftermarket suppliers. Original parts are often mass produced and quality assurance just isn't there. Aftermarket parts are usually jobbed out and they pay particular care in the outgoing product. Materials are often different. Nylon where steel to steel contact is made.

dgail620 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-27-2005, 08:19 PM

From what I understand, this carriage (and the one I'm replacing) are an upgrade from the ones with the nylon teeth. These are supposed to be made with metal, although it be a soft metal so it won't tear up the screw drive. With a soft metal, we have issues with it tearing up easily, just about as much as the nylon ones. I think this received it's last rites when the broom handle got stuck in the track and the garage didn't shut off as soon as it should.
I think I may need to further stabilize the whole garage door opener to see if the vibration would go down some. I've never heard one as loud as mine.

gdoorpro · #8 (**permalink**) 08-03-2007, 04:44 PM

The Carriages wear out, they are high maintence (you really should clean and lubricate the drive shaft every 6 months or more if used more than 5 times a day. They almost alway seem to get noisier with time.

they do last longer than many other types of operators, but if you want quite hassle free operator that is not hard on your garage door, get one that has a DC motor. Most manufacturers of garage door openers carry at least one in their lineup and if a dealer says he don't stock it, wait and pay the extra money. Especially if you plan on living their a good while.

Sounds like your problem may be that the door section is triggering the down limit switch when it passes through the radius of the track. You may be able to trim the limit switch or the door depending on material door is made from. If headroom is tight this happens often. espcially if you have the operator arm in a very long position. The arm should be attached between the top rollers and near a strut or some type of reinforcement on the top section.
Ryan