Lawn, Fertilizer, Weeds

[DKAudio]

I have had my house for a little over 2 years now. I am sure the prior owner did not do any lawn care. The first year I did nothing because of finances. Last year I did a 4 step program...
Crabgrass preventer and feed
Weed and feed
Insect control and feed
Winter blend and feed

This year I put down crabgrass preventer and feed. I used Menards brand again due to finances (it is cheaper than Scotts). I have been doing a lot of research and am finding that weed and feed fertilizers are not good. It can be dangerous to plants and trees and treats harshly. My lawn is pretty thin and has many uneven spots (bumps). The worst weed I get is typically dandelions. My plan is to do these 4 steps...
crabgrass preventer and feed
feed
feed
Winter blend and feed

I have read that a thick, lush lawn will prevent weeds since they can't grow. I am also mowing high leaving pretty lawn grass. I purchased some weed killer concentrate and a pressure pump bottle, pulling off the heads and spraying the weeds. This has not seamed to do much and I still have tons of dandelions. Then I tried a dandelion puller but it never gets the whole root so the weed will grow again.

What should I do?

I live in MN and think I have a blend of Kentucky blue, Rye, fescue although I am not sure.

[Allison1888]

You may want to consider starting over. Harsh, I know, but sometimes it's the only way. Here's a link that can help.

http://www.allaboutlawns.com/backyard/reclaiming-your-lawn-how-to-replace-a-lawn.php

Otherwise, yes, they say you need a thick lawn to crowd out weeds. I'm still trying in mine and it hasn't happened yet. Keep pulling the weeds and do spot weed killer as needed.

[mhgcsuper]

most of the crabgrass preventers are DNA herbicides. these DNA's are damaging to roots. they make them knot up on the tip of the root preventing the root from penetrating the soil and that causes a weakened turf stand. Why are doing all the crabgrass prevention? Are you sure you have crabgrass that bad? If dandelions are your major problem get some form of 2-4,D and go to town. Most grasses are tolerant to 2-4,D but always check the label to be sure your turf is. 2-4,D will wax dandelions. Get the good stuff. Go to a feed and seed or your local agricultural supply store and get a product with a high % of active ingredient. You really should not apply those DNA herbicides every year especially if you're not sure how bad you have crabgrass.

[DKAudio]

Old topic...

My crabgrass is not that bad. The reason I did it was because I was always told that was part of a good 4 step program.

My dandelions are getting better now (after working all year on it). Every year I work on it, it should get better the following year (due to less seeding).

What do you recommend for lawn fertilizer then? Just a basic fertilizer; no crabgrass, no weed, no insect control, etc?

[mhgcsuper]

Right now is the perfect time for a 1-2-2 or 1-2-3 fertilizer for the winter time. For instance a 1-2-2 is a 5-10-10 or a 10-20-20 and a 1-2-3 is a 5-10-15 or a 10-20-30. In the fall apply a high potassium or K (last number in the 0-0-0) and a low Nitrogen or N (first number in the 0-0-0). You may could get by with a higher N right now depending on your weather forecasts and current weather. You want to promote root growth and that is what the K will provide. The middle # is phosphorous and P is usually high on soil reports. It does not hurt to add some but try to limit the amount put down because it will tie up necessary elements if P gets too high. I usually recommend a P application in the spring only to help get seedlings started. In your case with the cool season grasses stay away from large amounts of N in the summer time. Save the N app's for the Spring, early fall and winter all in small amounts about a 1/3 lb. of N per 1000 sq. ft. for a total of around 2 lbs. of N per year. If it starts to yellow try some iron to promote greening without alot of growth. Keep it healthy but not lush. disease loves lush, heavily fertilized plants. Also do the gypsum it will add valuable calcium and help soften your soil. Again be very lean on the Di-nitro-analine (DNA) herbicides for pre emergent control. some of the DNA's are surflan, treflan and pendimethalin. Another possibility on the dandelions would be a hand held propane torch like for soldering and burn the plant down. If it gets hot enough it will kill the root. sorry for the book but I love this stuff and also do it for a living so I am very passionate about it.

[Dkim]

Very good tips guys! I used the 1-2-2 for my lawn but I'm still a bit worried for the next spring - hope the weed does not take overhand. I have very bad experiences with weed killer.
Do you have a good tip for a weed killer?

[codytaylor]

Originally Posted by mhgcsuper

If dandelions are your major problem get some form of 2-4,D and go to town. Most grasses are tolerant to 2-4,D but always check the label to be sure your turf is. 2-4,D will wax dandelions. Get the good stuff.

Sorry but what is 2-4,D ? I've got a mad dandelion problem and weed and feed is no longer legal in canada.

[mhgcsuper]

Cody,
2-4,D is an abbreviation of the chemical name to several products that are labeled that contain the 2-4,D ingredient. Go to any Wal-Mart, Lowes, hardware stores or an agricultural feed and seed and look on the labels of the bottles for a product that is for broadleaf weed control. Somewhere on that label there will be an active ingredient list which lists the chemicals in the bottle. 2-4 D should be listed in that list of the chemicals that control broadleaf weeds. Be sure to check for compatibility with the type of grass that you are applying it to.

[codytaylor]

Nice, Thanks for the explanation.