OK to use Electric in Basement?

[kactuskid]

If your basement has a drywalled ceiling then you won't be able to access the sill plate cavity. If you have a drop ceiling, then along the perimeter of the walls you can remove the tiles to gain access. The sill cavity is the area where the floor joist sit on top of the basement concrete walls. This area should be filled with some bat insulation with the vapor barrior facing in towards the basement.

As for your heating problem. You current heating system is not designed to heat your basement. You would need to install a zoned system. This is not a diyer job, new duct work with dampers installed in the ducting, along with electronic control would need to be installed. Here is a link to explain to you how it all works
http://cjonline.com/stories/100303/poh_zonedheat.shtml

For radiant heating contractors and manufactures in Canada just go to Google and do a search, I'm sure many will come up, this is a great way to provide heating for your basement and is a zoned system.

[ajg93]

I understand what you are saying however if the system wasn't designed to heat the basement, why is there a return and 2 supply registers there?

[Hube]

Ajg93; A split system is not necessary in your case. Obviously, the basement area should have proper insulation etc. (it probably does).Proper R/A location is essential... In some cases, a HIGH wall R/A location on the upper level is best in order to take this heat build-up back to the unit. If the upper level is holding the heat,this means there is not enough R/A on that level to be carried back and distributed over the entire both levels. For example; Upper area temp=72 Lower area temp=66... With proper air flow these 2 temps can be mixed and distibuted over BOTH levels; hence-69 av...Make sure the Basement Returns are located at FLOOR Level. By adjusting (BALANCE) the systems air flow dampers etc, an even higher temp on the lower level can be achieved. This can be easily accomplished by an HVAC Tech using air measuring instruments. You could even do it yourself by trial and error over a period of time. It all comes down to air flow quantity, sizing, fan speed,etc.

[Hube]

Ajg93. A 1500 sq ft basement will require a lot more supply and return than what you say is there now. For a finished basement to be forced air heated, 50 % of the required total of R/A should come from the basement level to have proper results. Your Hvac Tech will check this out and rectify it.

[ajg93]

Hube: Thank you for your advice and suggestions. I do think you are correct about return air in the basement and not being enough. Can I add more returns myself? I have a closed in (door access)laundry room where the furnance is located. The outer walls of the laudry room face the finished area. Can I use some ducting off the main return trunk create additional return air vents? I currently just have the grills there creating an airway into the laundry room. (Note, the basement is about 700 sq ft with the rest of the house 1500 sq ft. There is about 700 sq ft per floor with 3 floors)

Regarding your comments about return air on the 2nd level - it is 32x10 opening. I have 4 4x10 vents and 1 6x10. The thing is, they are all closed except for one. Even with this, the 2nd level still holds heat. Any thoughts as to why? Currently, the return grill is in the living/dining room at floor level. I can add a second high return in the hall (above the thermostat). This would use the joist opening serving as the return for my upstairs, 3rd level.

Thanks

[Hube]

Without seeing or knowing the exact locations and sizes of your heating lay-out it would be impossible to give you any exact revision procedures.Sizes of duct, locations,etc are a specialized field of the Trade and take many hours of learning and experience to do whats required. Why not call in a couple of Techs and obtain their views "hands on" to the situation. You will learn a few things and should be under no obligation. Then you can decide which path to take. Good luck...Hube

[ajg93]

Thanks Hube. I will take your advice. However, I don't think I need a Tech to install a return in my basement. I just need to know if I can use some ducting to run off the main r/a trunk to create vents in the walls of my laundry room that face into the finished areas.

[Hube]

A Return duct can be made using a joist space, as long as its reasonably sealed and makes its way back to the main return leg or into the furnace before entering the air filter. The only difficulty will be in getting the right size of entry etc, to avoid "short changing" the rest of the air system, and therefor adding to your problems.Also, if adding Returns to this basement make sure they are located LOW (at floor level). Do not put them High or all they will do is remove any heat you do have in this basement area... Hube

[ajg93]

If I am not able to use a joist space (since this is the basement and there are no joists that drop into the return trunk) can I use ducting off r/a truck to create the vent?

Adam

[Hube]

Sure, you can use ducting to provide the R/A to the unit, but the difficulty will still be in obtaining the proper sizing ,etc, so as not to disrupt anything good that you have now. A complete consenus of your lay-out would take the GUESS WORK out this problem. It must be done by a Pro. A hour of checking it over should give you definite solution to restoring the proper circulation thru-out the house. it may cost you 40 or 50 bucks or so, but it would be be worth it.. Again, i suggest you call in a pro to check it out and advise you as to any further installation of duct work. If you dont' have a clue as to sizez, etc, any guesswork you add yourself will most likely add to your problem. Hube