Monitor 441 Heater

[HayZee518]

that screw is for emptying out the float chamber when you do servicing. my attached drawing will show the insides of the float chamber. there is a black very fine threaded screw in the tang of the float. by adjusting this screw in or out, you are adjusting how high or low the float needs to travel to open or shut the needlevalve.counter clockwise opens the valve - clockwise closes it more. unless you intend to spend some time with the heater don't touch the screw. I found out the hard way.

[HayZee518]

look at the attached diagram of the fuel chamber.

[edindex]

Thanks for all your help -- and the warning. I'll leave that adjustment just where it is. -Rob

[HayZee518]

ok, the way you take the thing apart is; on the grill there are three screws near the top of it. the bottom has two tangs that are in slots. remove the screws and lift the grill out. the top is secured by three screws one on each side and one in the back. the top lifts off. there is a sheet metal shield with two klixon overloads on it. remove the phillips head screws I think there's four and rotate the cover out of the way. now you can get at the pot. one screw sideways that holds the pot to the side support and about nine that holds the top on the pot. careful of the insulation. it may shred when you take off the top. the burner head rotates counter clockwise about 40 degrees and lifts out. in the base you'll see a U shaped piece of metal. the igniter goes in here. in the base is the burner mat. you can get this from an MPI supplier -or- use a fireproof insulation like I got from mc master carr. use 500 degree rtv or stove cement to hold it in place on the bottom of the pot. the inspection window is a quartz glass - if you break it get a piece of boro silicate glass from mc master carr. use a new gasket to hold it in place. you'll find that the combustion blower motor will cost around $136. The solenoid pump is around $65. thank the Lord I haven't needed to replace the computer YET!

[HayZee518]

In answer to your original posting - lights flash when the pump is starving of fuel. check the screen below the float chamber. shut off the fuel outside and make a channel out of aluminum foil and remove the large screw. drain the bowl's contents into a shallow cup. remove the two screws and the filter should come out. use clean kero and clean the screen. I noticed a bunch of crap inside the float chamber. take it out of the heater and thoroughly clean it with Q tips and rags. Re-assemble it and put it back together in the heater. you can use permatex on the old gasket when you put back the filter screen inside. the spring goes onto the element and inside the far end of the filter chamber. the plastic "tit" fits the small depression on the filter cover.
lack of fuel, no ignition will cause the unit to lock out.

[edindex]

Thanks, again. I can't tell you how pleased I am to have such articulate advice! -Rob

[edindex]

In a previous life -- some 35 years ago -- I repaired home appliances for a living, so I expected high prices for parts. But I was still surprised at the prices I had to pay: burner pot $136, combustion ring assy $67, assorted gaskets, etc. $98.

I also learned that MPI specs call for tank outlet to be 16" above #41 inlet for sufficient line pressure for gravity-fed system. Local law prevents fuel delivery to tank with legs any longer than 12". In our case, that means I can't let the tank go below about one-third full.

I *will* change to a propane system, which is virtually maintenance-free, before I spend this kind of money again!

Thanks, again, for all your help. I'll print this thread out & keep it for reference.

Regards,
Rob Rudnick

[rharmon]

just fell onto this thread and our monitor has been out of commission for over a year cause we can't afford to have it repaired but it was doing the same thing - starting up, firing, fan comes on and then it would shut down. Can't figure out how to ge into the burner pot area to clean it - my son is really good at tinkering - could we get that pdf file please or could you advise how to get into that area to clean?
thanx
Rose Harmon
Maine

[HayZee518]

If you do a monitor heater repair search you'll eventually run up against Al Lucey who is there in Maine. Stay away from him. He speaks highly of himself but doesn't offer much for help. take off the front grill ( three screws) take off the top ( three or four screws) remove the front panel with the control switch board (four screws) remove the combustion liner plate (four screws) and rotate it out of the way. there's one screw holding the pot to the side plate remove this, then take all the screws out of the top of the burner pot. save the gaskets they'll be very fragile and might crumble. rotate the combustion ring 30 degrees counter clockwise and it'll come out.

[rharmon]

thank you - that is very helpful. Yes Al is a piece of work isn't he - a lot of hot air it appears. Do we need to get new gaskets or if we are careful can the ones on there just be reused? We're halfway there
Rosie