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  1. #1
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    Automatic air vent

    Is there anything that can be done to keep water from leaking out of this valve on my hydronic heating system? If I open it up the slightest amount to let the air out, it starts leaking water.

    I'm replacing it but I've heard these things always leak.

    Is that true?


    Thanks,
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    Dan

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkpbxman View Post
    Is there anything that can be done to keep water from leaking out of this valve on my hydronic heating system? If I open it up the slightest amount to let the air out, it starts leaking water.

    I'm replacing it but I've heard these things always leak.

    Is that true?


    Thanks,
    Its like every thing else, they don't make them like they use to.
    Usually when new they will work properly for a few years before the start leaking.
    But if you have a little junk in the water in your system then it get on the seat
    and it will not shut off. Now when it is relieving air , you will get a little squat
    of water but it should stop. Later Paul

  3. #3
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    the air vent should be installed at the highest point in the system. its purpose is to remove air. if its low in the system, of course you are going to get water!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkpbxman View Post
    Is there anything that can be done to keep water from leaking out of this valve on my hydronic heating system? If I open it up the slightest amount to let the air out, it starts leaking water.

    I'm replacing it but I've heard these things always leak.

    Is that true?


    Thanks,
    How a auto air vent works. When air comes up in the vent,
    the float in the vent drops and the air is bleed out. When the air is bleed out and water hits the float, the water under pressure drives the float up to the seat and closes so water won't come out. There for a auto bleeder can and is used in the system where ever you need it to take air out. Some boilers have air eliminators built into the casting so you use a bleeder in the top of the boiler. If you install a in line air eliminator in the return line just above the boiler then you use a auto bleeder there. Later Paul

  5. #5
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    A honeywell Braukman auto aiir vent works great, you can even shut them off, and remove and clean the float and bowl. I only use these when replacing air vents

  6. #6
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    I am having a similar issue with one of the automatic vent valves in my system. My question is a little different however; I know I need to replace the valve but I am uncertain if I need to drain my boiler to do so... the vent valve that needs replacement is on a pipe that comes right out of the boiler. Besides waiting for the temperature to drop in the boiler, do I have to take any other precautions when removing the old valve and installing a new one? I own a Weil-McLain WGTO Series 3.

    Also, I really don't understand the reason for an air vent valve so low in the system. Does anyone know why there is one coming right out of the boiler?

    Thanks guys!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexCT View Post
    I am having a similar issue with one of the automatic vent valves in my system. My question is a little different however; I know I need to replace the valve but I am uncertain if I need to drain my boiler to do so... the vent valve that needs replacement is on a pipe that comes right out of the boiler. Besides waiting for the temperature to drop in the boiler, do I have to take any other precautions when removing the old valve and installing a new one? I own a Weil-McLain WGTO Series 3.

    Also, I really don't understand the reason for an air vent valve so low in the system. Does anyone know why there is one coming right out of the boiler?

    Thanks guys!
    I can't see your system but you can turn off all valves, feed valves. tank valve.
    Like you said have water temp down. If you have valves where valves should be then you could take pressure off real easy.
    The reason you have a bleeder at that point is, a lot of boilers have a air
    eliminator built into the casting of the boiler. This makes it so you don't have to install one in the line. So if your boiler has this you need to have a bleeder there. Later Paul

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul52446m View Post
    I can't see your system but you can turn off all valves, feed valves. tank valve.
    Like you said have water temp down. If you have valves where valves should be then you could take pressure off real easy.
    The reason you have a bleeder at that point is, a lot of boilers have a air
    eliminator built into the casting of the boiler. This makes it so you don't have to install one in the line. So if your boiler has this you need to have a bleeder there. Later Paul
    Thanks for the quick repsonse Paul.
    With all the valves shut should I expect a lot of water to come out when I remove the auto air vent valve? I suppose this would depend on where my valves are and how much pressure is acting on the water in the boiler once the valves are shut. If a lot of water does come out do I need to add water to the system? I'm a newbie to boilers so thanks for your patience.
    The air eliminator in the casting makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexCT View Post
    Thanks for the quick repsonse Paul.
    With all the valves shut should I expect a lot of water to come out when I remove the auto air vent valve? I suppose this would depend on where my valves are and how much pressure is acting on the water in the boiler once the valves are shut. If a lot of water does come out do I need to add water to the system? I'm a newbie to boilers so thanks for your patience.
    The air eliminator in the casting makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation.
    Like you said i can't see your system so i can not tell how much water you will
    get. If you don't have a valve on your expansion tank then you could get a least a gal. out of that.. If you take the temp down, and you don't mind getting a little wet, then put the pipe dope on the new bleeder and when you unscrew the old one, put your finger over the hole to stop the water flow, then change it real fast. I do that all the time. You should have a auto feed valve that will
    put the pressure back up to 12LBS. . Later Paul

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul52446m View Post
    Like you said i can't see your system so i can not tell how much water you will
    get. If you don't have a valve on your expansion tank then you could get a least a gal. out of that.. If you take the temp down, and you don't mind getting a little wet, then put the pipe dope on the new bleeder and when you unscrew the old one, put your finger over the hole to stop the water flow, then change it real fast. I do that all the time. You should have a auto feed valve that will
    put the pressure back up to 12LBS. . Later Paul
    Thanks again Paul. I'll give it a shot and I guess the worst that can happen is I get a shower- hopefully only a short one.

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