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Old 11-19-2004, 04:59 PM
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I called the town plumbing inspector today and he said that I need a trap/cleanout and vent on the main line. I guess the codes can vary by that much from state to state. His reason was that if a trap on a sink (for example) dried out then you could/would get sewer gas in the house. Thank you very much for all of your help!
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:16 PM
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Wow,,I find it amazing that your local code still requires a house trap. The International Residential Code, Uniform Plumbing Code, BOCA Plumbing Code and SBCCA plumbing codes all prohibit them.

In my jurisdiction we have an ordinance that says when we encounter a house trap we are required to remove it immediately or notify the code enforcement office in writing within 24 hours. In addition, when we remove a house trap we are required to break it in a minimum of three pieces to insure it can not be used again.

We are also subject to a $500 per unit fine for any servicable house traps in our inventories.
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Old 11-19-2004, 10:49 PM
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I guess the zoning laws vary from state to state. Can I ask what state you are from? I'm from New York.
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Old 11-19-2004, 11:14 PM
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I am curently working in Ohio & Pa and am applying for licensing in western N.Y. .have also recently worked in Florida, Alabama, Mississippi and Texas.

If you are in New York you may need to ask your code officer if you can perform any DIY service. The trade publications are saying that all plumbing work in New York whatsoever MUST BE performed by licensed plumbers.
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Old 11-20-2004, 04:19 PM
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The plumbing inspector knows I am doing it. He even asked if I wanted him to come by to give me some pointers. I got the stuff today so I may tackle it tomorrow?
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Old 11-20-2004, 06:56 PM
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Lazypup - I'm in NY. Five years ago I replumbed my entire house drain system main line and the branches. I re-did all my domestic hot and cold water lines and got the whole installation approved by the inspector.
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Old 11-20-2004, 10:04 PM
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I am very glad to hear that. I would be one of the first to agree that the Plumbing industry as a whole needs to make some sweeping changes, but restricting the homeowners ability to perform service on their own home is not and can not be a viable answer to our problems.

The greatest single problem in the Plumbing trade is the lack of a standardized National Plumbing Code. As I am sure Hayzee can confirm, in the electrical trade they have a National Code. Local jurisdictions often then ammend that code to develope a regional or municipal code. But even then, they dont ammend the code, but rather just define which option they want to see in those instances where the National Code allows variations.

By contrast, in the plumbing trade we have a code nightmare. Primarily we have the Uniform Plumbing Code, International Residential Code or the BOCA code, but in the southeastern states they often use the SBCCA code. California has an entirely different Code.

As if that were not problamatic enough, many municipalities do not even stay current with the code they have agreed to adopt. By Example, in Eastern Ohio most communities use the BOCA code, however Youngstown is using the 2002 BOCA Code while its neigboring community of Brookfield still uses the 1994 BOCA Code.

In many parts of western Pennsylvania its anybodies guess what code to use. To make matters worse, there is no permitting or inspections required on residential work except new construction, or in the case of rehabing a structure that has been vacant more than 3 yrs.

In Sharon,Pa. I recently called for an inspection and a firetruck showed up. They informed me that the fire department was doing the inspections. A young rookie fireman came into the house, checked to make sure the bedroom windows would open, checked the smoke alarms and checked to insure that the water heater flue pipe was properly sealed to the chimney, then signed off my plumbing inspection, go figure.

By contrast, while working in Florida, we not only had to have everything permitted, in order to replumb a house we had to have 5 inspections, Sewer or septic field, rough in, stackout, potable water supply and water heater installation.

As if codes and permitting we not enough of a nightmare, there is absolutely no standards on licensing of plumbers. In Florida where I took my apprenticeship we were required to be employed under the supervision of a Master Plumber for a minimum of 40 hours a week for four years. If you didnt work a full 40 hours that week didnt count. In addition, we had to attend a state approved night school course for the entire four yrs, and we had to submit weekly timesheet reports to the state department of labor. At the end of the four years, if we had completed the required academics, had a certificate of achievenment from the department of labor, and had a written letter of recommendation from the Master, we could then sit for the state licensing exam.

Here in Ohio and Pennsylvania if one desires to be a residential plumber you simply go to city hall, show proof of workmans comp insurance (if you employ 4 or more people), show liability insurance, and pay an annual fee ranging from $85 to $150 per community. In many rural communities there are no requirements whatsoever.

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Old 11-23-2004, 12:51 PM
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It sounds like it's just a free-for-all amoung the states. LazyPup, I dug up the lines (broke up concrete) this past weekend and I am ready to go for next weekend. I do, however, have another question. The house trap is cast iron. It looks like the house line and the street line are connected witth a rubber bushing, not lead. Does that mean that friction is the only thing holding it together? Can the joint be pulled apart without cutting the pipe?
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Old 11-23-2004, 03:27 PM
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Yes,,if it has a rubber bushing it is just a friction fit and you can pull it apart.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:10 PM
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Lazy Pup, I wanted to thank you for such an interesting read you provided concerning DWV systems. I learned alot from this and have a question regarding some of the information your presented.

You said:
"When a house is tapped into the municipal sewer, a house sewer line is run from the street to the house main cleanout. The line then continues undiminished in size under the house to form the main building drain. At any point along the main building drain a line is then run up and out through the roof, again, undiminished in size. "

My question is if a 4" drain line is installed under the basement floor and leading out to the municiple sewer, is it also required then to have a 4" vertical stack leading up through the house and through the roof. I believe my homes stack is a 4" diameter one, but only 3" comming out of the roof.

I tried looking it up on the net, and found this link for Floridas codes and they seem to be installing ones that are even smaller now. I suppose states vary greatly in their requirements, but was wondering what the opinion is on all this.
http://www.floridaplumbingperspectiv...so99.25-26.htm

Thanks for your time.
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