Second floor laundry info....

[mrcaptainbob]

I remember reading here about needing some drain pan item for a washing machine and also an exterior drain for a water heater. Here's my project: part of the rehab on this ol' house is to move the washer and dryer upstairs. Also, would like to install an electric water heater there, too. It would all back up to the second floor bath, and would be handy to get hot water quicker there rather than wait for it to flow from the basement! So, my question(s): what must I do to put that in effect other than the regular plumbing of the hot/cold/waste. What about these 'basins' for the washer and the heater? Where would I purchase that? Do box stores carry stuff like that? Where do I get info on that and on the t/p vent?

[LazyPup]

Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) require that whenever a water heater is installed in an attic space or over a wood floor it is required to have a drain pan. (IRC 2801.5 or UPC 510.7)

1. The Drain pan must be 24 guage galvanized steel or it may be listed and approved plastic pan.

2. The pan must have a minimum 3/4" dain line IRC 2801.5.1 (UPC 510.7)

3. The drain must terminate by means of an indirect waste or outdoors 6" to 24" above grade (IRC2801.5.2 or UPC 510.7)

Although not specifically listed in the IRC or UPC, your local code may also require a drain pan under the washing machine, if so, it should meet the same standards as the water heater drain pan. I would strongly recommend a drain pan under a washing machine). The exception would be if the entire room is constructed as a shower pan type floor with a floor drain.

The drain pans and water heater T&P valve must have individual drain lines, they may not be combined.

4. The pan must be a minimum of 1 1/2" deep (IRC 2801.5.1)

5. The water heater T&P (Temperature & Pressure relief valve) MAY NOT terminate into the pan (IRC 2803.6.1 UPC 510.8)

The water heater T&P valve must run undiminished in size and terminate in an approved indirect waste receptor or outside and terminate 6" above finish grade (IRC 2803.6.1) ( not less than 6" nor more than 24" above finish grade UPC 608.5)

The lines must be pitched downward at 1/4"/ft and there may be no traps on the discharge line (IRC-2803.6.1 or UPC 608.5)

The end of the pipe must be clearly visable and there may be no valves, fittings or threads on the discharge end of the lines (IRC 2803.6.1 or UPC 608.4 + 608.5)

Line must be Galvanized Steel, hard drawn Copper or CPVC..(IRC2803.6.2 or UPC 608.5)

The line must be protected from freezing or terminate into an approved indirect receptor in a heated space (IRC 2803.6.1 or UPC 608.5)

An electric water heater would be permitted, but a solid, liquid or gaseous fueled heater may not be placed in a bathroom, bedroom, or a closet or utility space open to the same. (IRC 2005.2 or UPC 509.0)

The washing machine standpipe waste receptor must be a minimum of 2" diameter.

A laundry sink may drain into the washing machine standpipe if the sink drain center is within 30 inches of the standpipe.

The standpipe must have a p-trap not less than 6" nor more than 18" above the floor UPC 804.1

Standpipe must be a minimum of 18" but not greater than 42" above the p-rap wier (IRC 2706.2) (18" to 30" UPC-804.1)

The washing machine may discharge into a Laundry Tub (IRC 2706.3.2 or UPC table 7.3)

The waste line must be sized for 3 drainage fixture units..
NO trap below the floor (UPC 804.1)

[mrcaptainbob]

Thanks for all that info, LazyPup. I'll be doing some shopping for the 'stuff' soon. Hadn't planned on a wash tub up there, but that would solve a lot of problems. That 2" stand pipe for the laundry was an interesting bit of info. The one I'm removing is 1.5. Oh yeah, and since I've removed most of the old waste pvc from the area that I'm working in, I got to find even more pitiful stuff. There's no evidence of any primer on any of the fittings. Only lots of cement slopped on. Half the system crashed to the floor when I was removing a p-trap from the old shower, and some of the joints came apart quite cleanly, while most others were hanging on by maybe 25%. Nice little project house we have here!

[ricrobrod]

Please tell me where I can find a galvanized drain pan to put under my washing machine. Is it called something besides a drain pan? Thanks

[LazyPup]

I have never seen a ready made drain pan that can be purchased of the shelf.

Nearly all HVAC companies that install sheet metal ducting have a sheet metal shop and they can custom make a pan to meet your needs. They are accustomed to making drip pans for attic mounted AC units so they already know what you need, they just need to know what size you need.

[Allison1888]

Keep us posted on how the project goes, as we're considering this for our master bedroom. Just want a stackable washer and dryer, not a water heater, but we'll have similar plumbing needs.

[mrcaptainbob]

Well, it has been awhile, but it is near completion. There now is a water heater, wash tub, washer and dryer, a special smooth top table for folding clothes on and a low-boy table beside the washer for the laundry basket to set on to alleviate bending over. (Also placed the dryer on a closed box to raise the front door higher for her, too.) The water heater T&P is in the laundry tub, as is the washing machine drain. The most difficult part was to finesse the radiant floor heat in the adjacent bathroom and tie it in with the heat system for the water heater. (The house and water heaters work from an out door wood burner.) Fitting those pipes through the walls and floor along with the DWV, main cold water potable and the branch hot and cold pipes, plus the gas line for the dryer was a bit of a challenge. Made the more difficult because of a sixteen inch offset between the first floor wall and the second floor wall. I am proud to say there were NO LEAKS!
Putting the dryer vent through the double thick layer of brick was easier than expected and came out great. My wife is really pleased with the new overhead lighting and is anxious for the vent fans to be installed. That will happen when the remainder of the electrical work is finished. The final phase of that project will be to drywall the one wall with all the plumbing, then lay down the floor underlayment and her new floor tile. Hope this will be done by Christmas.
Thanks for the help on this major undertaking goes to many here, especially LayPup and HayZee. Thanks, guys....