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Old 05-17-2005, 09:37 PM
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You would not be able to use the tub drain because the code minimum for a laundry standpipe is 2" and tub drains are 1-1/2.

Do not fear the outside work,it is the easy part.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:32 PM
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fauxplumber
Hi LazyPup, How can I drop this washer drain below grade? The floor of the house sits about 6 in. above outside grade. The floor is slab, the walls are concrete block? Since the drain will be starting at 6" above inside floor how can I get it below the exterior grade? It will only be traveling about 6 ft before it needs to exit the house . Thanks so much.
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:09 PM
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I had the side view in my last illustration but it was a bit confusing so here it is reworked a bit.

Notce that it must change to 3" at grade level.

Some jurisdictions will not permit external drain piping on a structure. In that case it can be done as shown but requires being boxed in and finished

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Old 05-23-2005, 11:51 PM
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LazyPup, Sorry for the poor question. I did see the previous diagram and it was really fine. Sorry you had to do another one. I bet that takes some time and it is so kind of you to do that. I just had the idea that the portion that exits from the outside wall had to be underground. So it is ok to have a section exposed to the sun? Is it ok to have a 6 inch drop in a matter of 6ft travel of pipe ( from stand pipe to outside wall)? I still am making sure I have this all set up correctly. I looked at the pipe I have. They sold me 2"PVC Type 1 SCH 40 ASTM D-2665 NSF-dwv. I had already purchase the pipe before I read your post concerning types of pipe. Thanks again for your generous help. Best wishes
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:23 AM
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Not to worry my friend, In many cases creating or editing an illustration takes far less time than it would take to write a descriptive answer. By example, this illustration took under five minutes. Not only does the illustrations save me time, but i feel it conveys the information better than a long writting reply.

The pipe you have is perfect for this application.

I think you will find it difficult to get a 6" drop in 6' because that would be too much stress on the pipe and fittings. Given that you are installing an auxillary vent on the upstream end, you can now install an offset at any convenient place downstream of the vent connection. To do so use two 1/8 bends (45deg) with a short nipple between them.


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Old 05-24-2005, 11:59 AM
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Thanks once again. I thought it would be ok to just slope it at 1/4" per foot to the wall and put on all the things you have in the diagram when I get outside wall on. I quess it is ok to be above grade there ? If I don't lower it before exiting the wall it will be about a foot above grade. I also have an exterior hose connection in the same area. It is about 6 to 8 inches above grade. Am I correct that on a slab the line will be run directly up the inside of the block from the slab. I don't want to get into that water line when I bread a hole through the wall. It's always something. I saw in another area that you had good luck with an anti virus trojan program. Are you still happy with results? I downloaded it but it wouldn't run for me. Best wishes
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:19 PM
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Running the drain directly to the outside without making the offset would be the preferred method. There is no problem with PVC being exposed to sunlight but many jurisdictions do not permit exposed drain pipes on the exterior of the building. In that case you could use a bit of ingenuity like enclosing the above grade portion in a planter box...heheheheh..

You are correct that in most cases on slab construction the line to the hose bibb rises vertically out of the slab up to the hose bibb location, but as i stated, that is in most cases, it is not a guarantee so you may want to exercise a bit of caution when breaking out the block until you can see into the cavity.

IN reference to your question on the Anti-Vir program, i have been running both the Anti-Vir and AD-Aware about once a week since I downloaded it.

The Anti-Vir has automatically updated twice since i loaded it, and between the two programs i have found at least two or three malicious spyware programs on my computer at each running.

As Troy could confirm, my computer was almost totally locked up before I got the Anti-Vir. since i have been running it my computer has been running clean and nearly as fast as the first day i set it up, which is not bad when you consider i have an 80 gig HD nearly full and a 250 gig external HD about 1/2 full.
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:43 PM
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I like the planter idea so I guess it's a go. I'll go across and out. I have had some unexpected distractions so won't get to start on it right away. I have copied all your info so I have a road map to follow. You have been so patient, helpful and very understanding. On top of that your obviously brilliant. How'd ya get so darn smart? As for My computer. It gets real slow if I don't delete my temporary internet files every few days (including off line files). I get rid of some spyware when I do that. I would love to run Avwinsfx but so far unable to. I used your link and I downloaded it. I put it on my desktop. When I try to open it I get a warning saying its not a valid win32 application. It also doesn't have a valid certificate. I have windows XP . When it comes to computers I am always afraid of making the situation worse. My last computer went in the trash because of something I picked up on the internet. I tried alot of things on it and everything made the problem grow. Slow is better than the trash if you know what I mean. It has been a pleasure.
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:48 PM
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I would make a minor suggestion. If you elect to use the flower planter to conceal the exposed portion of the piping i would suggest you extend the clean out up to the finish level of the dirt in the planter. The plants will conceal it, but it would remain readily accessible in the event you need to snake the drain.
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