How does this "tap" work?

[LazyPup]

1" is very uncommon for a residential structure.

You may be able to find a 1 x 1 x 1/2 copper sweat tee (that is a 1" tee with a 1/2" side tap.)

If you dont find a reducing tee use a regular tee with a 1" x 1/2" reducer.

You will then be able to stub out a short length of 1/2" copper and the 5/8compression line stop will fit on the 1/2" copper stubout.

[Max]

I checked the plumbing as much as I could just now and this is what I found:
1. all the plumbing from the pressure tank and softener is 1" pipe.
2. the 1" pipe heads over towards the heater but since it's above ducting I can't see everything. What I do see is the 1" pipe going into a reducing tee i.e. 1" - 3/4". The 3/4" pipe runs a very short distance, <2', where it is further reduced to 1/2" pipe.
3. I checked other pipes that I could see in the basement and there are no more 1" pipes visible. Most of the pipe running in the basement seems to be 3/4" with 1/2" pipes heading up into the house.

I don't know if any of this is good or bad or indifferent though.

It sounds like I can still do what I need to do but I will need an extra step to reduce the pipe diameter. That's seems to be no big deal though. I found all the other fittings I need in the store for a 1/2" pipe so once I reduce the source I will be all set.

I did some other checking on the web to learn more about compression fittings, etc. and one thing I noticed in passing is that lots of people still advocate the usage of self tapping saddle taps. No way will I consider that with the failure rate coupled with the fact that my current saddle tap has failed as well! The way I see it is you spend a little more money and spend a little longer doing the work properly and you get a job that lasts a helluva lot longer. I have to tell you though that when I couldn't find the fittings I needed I stood in the store with another saddle tap in my hand pondering about going for the quick and dirty fix but I couldn't do it. If I'm gonna do this, I'm gonna do it right.

Thanks, Max

[Max]

Lazypup, in reference to your drawing above, could I make the section of pipe between the 90deg elbow and the tee (the one attached to the water hammer arrestor) longer and therefor reduce the length of soft copper pipe? I was thinking of doing this:
1. remove the saddle tap
2. fit a tee (1" x 1" x 1/2")in its place
3. run a 6" length of 1/2 copper from the tee
4. attach a 90deg elbow to that
5. run about 4' of copper tubing (supported).

Hopefully the image below will clarify what I am saying.

Cheers, Max

[LazyPup]

You can place the water hammer arrester at any convenient point between where you make the tap and the stop valve. The lenght of the horizontal line doesnt matter.