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09-01-2005, 08:32 PM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: .
Posts: 122
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Soldering
After following your advice I'm all ready for soldering. My job is to replace the shut-offs on the washer. I've purchased a single valve shutoff. My main question is how do I get the pipe soldered & not get the valve so hot it gets damaged? Do I put a damp rag on it?
Also I know from your instructions to heat the shut-off so the solder draws to it but could you be very specific about the swetting of the single handled laundry shut-off. I also got the 19040 torch head.
Thank you very much.
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09-01-2005, 10:33 PM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: .
Posts: 122
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After re-reading some plubing posts I think you answered all of my questions.
Thank you very much for all your help.
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09-02-2005, 06:13 AM
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Deity
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Saint Regis Falls, NY, USA.
Posts: 3,897
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Something I found helpful is to remove the valve body from the brass stubs to the valve. Two screws hold the thing together. That way the beoprene washers don't melt from the heat.
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09-02-2005, 11:37 AM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: .
Posts: 122
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Well I got the washer valve all installed. It hasn't leaked YET!!!!
Is there a way to see if it is a good soldering job besides not seeing water spraying out?
Fred
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09-02-2005, 05:28 PM
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Deity
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sharon, PA, USA.
Posts: 2,211
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Personally I avoid soldering valves like the plague. Whenever I have the option I select valves that have a threaded mount. I then solder a thread adapter on the pipe and screw the valve in place. This totally insures I won't have problems with overheating a valve.
When replacing a laundry valve I often cut the pipe about a foot below the valve, thread the pipes onto the new valve then reconnect the pipes with a coupling.
In instances where I must solder the valve, I always try to remove the stem before soldering and as a last resort I use the wet rag method and try to get on and off the fitting quickly to minimize heat damage.
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