Home Repair Forum



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2006, 10:05 AM
vdotmatrix's Avatar
Handyman
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: melonville, virginia.
Posts: 185
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vdotmatrix is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via AIM to vdotmatrix
If I Hit The Water Supply to MY HOUSE?

If I hit the water supply to my house, which is probably 3/4" gaalvanized, with some 2.5ft rebar stakes i am pounding in, how hard would it be to repair myself?

First-shut the water off at the meter by the street........
__________________
It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

Last edited by vdotmatrix; 01-22-2006 at 12:32 PM.. Reason: stimulate a response
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2006, 03:05 PM
LazyPup's Avatar
Deity
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Youngstown, Ohio USA.
Posts: 2,258
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
LazyPup has a spectacular aura about
If you are sure that you have iron pipe water lines you could get a good estimate of the pipe position by locating exaclty where the pipe enters the structure, then pull a string from there to the curb box or meter location. Iron pipes seldom change direction under ground. If you happen to have a basement you should be able to locate where the pipe passes through the basement wall. You could also estimate the exact depth of the water line which would help you in avoiding it.

If the pipe is in fact 3/4" galvanized you should be okay. Iron pipe is a really tough material and unless you were unfortunate enough to hit the pipe exactly straight on the top of the pipe the odds are the rebar would be deflected enough to go down beside the pipe without a problem.

I would just exercise a bit of care when driving the rebar. If it hits an obstruction it could be a rock or it could be your water line, in either case i would pull the rebar and try again with a little bit of an angle to miss that spot rather than use brute force and risk going through the water line.

Aside from being labor intensive, repairing an underground waterline is generally not a difficult job. First you would need to excavate the pipe to access the extent of damage. In some cases you can use an external pipe repair clamp bolted over the point of damage. The next alternative would be to cut a section of the pipe out and thread the ends. Attach a coupling, then install a Barb fitting and connect the two ends with a short section of Polyethelene roll pipe.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2006, 04:15 PM
vdotmatrix's Avatar
Handyman
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: melonville, virginia.
Posts: 185
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
vdotmatrix is an unknown quantity at this point
Send a message via AIM to vdotmatrix
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyPup
If you are sure that you have iron pipe water lines you could get a good estimate of the pipe position by locating exaclty where the pipe enters the structure, then pull a string from there to the curb box or meter location. Iron pipes seldom change direction under ground. If you happen to have a basement you should be able to locate where the pipe passes through the basement wall. You could also estimate the exact depth of the water line which would help you in avoiding it.

If the pipe is in fact 3/4" galvanized you should be okay. Iron pipe is a really tough material and unless you were unfortunate enough to hit the pipe exactly straight on the top of the pipe the odds are the rebar would be deflected enough to go down beside the pipe without a problem.

I would just exercise a bit of care when driving the rebar. If it hits an obstruction it could be a rock or it could be your water line, in either case i would pull the rebar and try again with a little bit of an angle to miss that spot rather than use brute force and risk going through the water line.

Aside from being labor intensive, repairing an underground waterline is generally not a difficult job. First you would need to excavate the pipe to access the extent of damage. In some cases you can use an external pipe repair clamp bolted over the point of damage. The next alternative would be to cut a section of the pipe out and thread the ends. Attach a coupling, then install a Barb fitting and connect the two ends with a short section of Polyethelene roll pipe.
Thanks Man, I was waiting to hear from you! So if I hit the pipe, by the time I turn the water off the area should be well excavated LOL! OKAY....Thanks Man

Vincent
__________________
It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Stats
Members: 12,946
Threads: 7,778
Posts: 33,327
Top Poster: HayZee518 (4,978)
Welcome to our newest member, mitchell123
» Online Users: 20
0 members and 20 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 400, 06-22-2009 at 07:11 AM.
» Links

» Sponsors
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.0