Slow Leaking Water Heater

[LazyPup]

Like you, i had hoped that this tank would allow you a bit more time, but such is life in the plumbing business.

Before you begin your actual change out let us discuss some of the code requirements for your new water heater.

1. You are required to have a "Full Bore" type valve at or near the water heater on the cold water supply line. (My personal preference is a Ball Valve).

2. You must have unions on both the hot and cold water lines within 12" of the top of the water heater vessel. (The union must be between the shut off valve and the water heater vessel.)

3. You have copper pipes so you MUST HAVE dielectric nipples between the water heater steel vessel and the copper piping. (Check you new water heater packing because many now come supplied with the required dielectric nipples).

The dielectric nipples are made of galvanized iron pipe and have NPT (National Pipe Taper) male threads on each end. You will need either PIPE DOPE or 3 full wraps of YELLOW PTFE (teflon) tape. (Do not use the white teflon tape that is commonly sold in the hardware because that tape is not certified for threaded joints greater than 3/8".) In my personal opinion this is to be considered a permanent joint so PIPE DOPE would be the preferred method. You can buy a small 1oz tube of pipe dope that will be more than adequate for the installation. (When you first open the tube and squeeze the dope out you will note a bit of oil that comes out first. That is an oil from the dope that commonly separates out. Be sure to squeeze the tube to get that excess out out until you get a full flow of gray pipe dope.) Apply the dope liberally to the male threads of the dielectric nipple threads then insert the nipple and tighten it in place. (do not put dope in the female threads of the tank fitting)

HERES A TIP: it is very easy to damage the teflon or pipe dope seal when soldering the female adapter. I prefer to dry fit riser from the dielectric nipple to the union then take it off the tank and solder it on the side, allowing it to cool before actually applying the dope and assembling the riser. You will be able to screw the female adapter on the dielectric nipple, then make final connection by assembling the unions.

Your water heater is in an "Immediately Accessible" location so if you already have a suitable shutoff valve and if you are not comfortable with soldering you could elect to use the flexible copper water heater supply lines that have a FIP (Female iron pipe) connector on the tank end to connect to the dielectric nipple and a Compression Fitting on the opposite end that can be attached directly to the existing copper pipe by simply tightening the fitting with a wrench.

Your water heater is in an unfinished basement with a floor drain so you will be permitted to discharge the Temperature & Pressure relief valve on the floor. The discharge opening of your T&P valve is 3/4" therefore you must install a 3/4" discharge pipe down to within 6" of the floor. (Absolutely do not reduce the size of the discharge pipe. Reducing the pipe by one nominal trade size would reduce the volume of flow by 50% and that would negate the ability of the T&P to adequately relieve the pressure if need be.)

The codes says that when a gas fired water heater is installed in a garage, a room which opens into a garage, or any area where flamable liquids may be stored you are required to elevate the base of the water heater so that the lowest point of combustion is 18" above the finished floor. (Some local codes require this elevation for water heaters installed in unfinished basements.)

For gas water heaters there must be an approved gas shutoff valve in the near proximity of the water heater. (The shutoff valve may not serve more than one appliance).

Some local codes require the gas line to be hard piped with iron pipe all the way to the gas control valve while other jurisdictions will permit a flexible gas connector line from the shutoff valve to the water heater gas control. If your jurisdiction permits the flexible lines I would strongly suggest you install a new gas connector rather than attempt to reuse the old one.

All gas connections MUST BE leak tested with soap bubbles or an approved electronic gas detector.

In some regions subject to hurricanes, tornadoes or seimic activity you are required to install seismic support straps on the water heater vessel. The upper support strap is to be placed in the upper 1/3 of the tank height and a lower strap must be placed not more than 4" above the top of the gas control valve on the water heater.

If you will look through some of the other posts on this forum regarding water heaters you will see numerous illustrations.

[Cmudr1]

Just wanted to say Thankx for all the help you guys have been. I just upgraded to a 50 gal Electric and all is working great! (with all the fittings and flex hoses by the way LP , should be up to code)

Thanks Chris