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10-10-2006, 08:27 PM
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Washer drain overflow
I can't seem to figure this out and was wondering if any one has any suggestions. I just got a new washer. When I fill w/ water then drain, the water quickly backs up the drain pipe in the wall and overflows. The drain is clear because I used a clog buster and it drained right out. Once it spins the water out to a certain level, it drains fine and if I just turn the washer off, it continues to drain the water(but its just a slow trickle, not forcefully), w/o overflowing. I have had this problem once before (w/ my old washer)and it would come and go w/ no rhyme nor reason. My husband took a piece of PVC and wedged it into the drain hose to extend the length. He filled the washer to varying water levels and each time it drained fine, then I put a load of clothes in and when it started to spin/drain, it overflowed again. This is so frustrating and I need advice. Our house is a 38 year old tri-level and the washer is on the lowest level of the house. The drain itself goes into the floor and makes an immediate 90* turn under the house. I can't help but wonder if this is some how contributing to the issue. PLEASE HELP! Thank you!
Last edited by trammellclan3; 10-10-2006 at 08:32 PM..
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10-10-2006, 11:32 PM
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Deity
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I think you have a two part problem, one part which is fairly easy to fix and the other that could be detailed.
You stated that you had cleaned the line with a chemical drain opener. While it is true that chemical drain openers can restore a passage through a clog, there is no assurance that it actually removed the majority of the clog. The only effective way to insure a drain line is open is to use a powered drain auger fitted with a cutting attachment mated to the size of the line.
You stated that this house is 38 years old, therefore we can assume the laundry standpipe is an 1-1/2" line which was code standard at the time the house was built, however in the mid 1980's the appliance industry changed to a higher volume pump in order to reduce operating time and save energy. The result is that laundry standpipes must now be 2" pipe. You may continue to use the 1-1/2" pipes but do so with the understanding that even a slight buildup of soap residue or a partial clog will render the pipe insufficient to meet the needs of the higher capacity pumps.
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06-21-2007, 07:14 AM
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New washer drain REPAIRED
Over two years ago I purchased a new Kenmore washer with a drain overflow problem. The old washer (only 5 years old) drained fine. Our drain pipe was 2 inches. We thought it was a clogged drain, but it wasn't. We had to temporarily have the gray water exit through the window. Yesterday it dawned on me that the old washer drain hose had a hard plastic "U" where it went into the wall drain pipe; the new hose did not. I went to the store and purchased a new hose with a "U" in the end. Evidently, besides helping the hose stay in the drain pipe, the "U" slows down the waterflow. PROBLEM SOLVED!
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02-04-2009, 08:13 PM
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The smaller 1 1/2 drain pipe is exactly my problem with a newer washing machine. Does anyone have any solutions for fixing the problem?
I have put soapy water and rinsed it with Hot water for 15 minutes. With the water hose, the drain did not overflow.
I was thinking about attaching a PVC pipe to extend the drain up a little. And then creating a sealed connection, so if it overflowed, it would flow back into the washing machine, instead of the floor. But from what I read regarding the timer on the pump, I think I would be left with water in the machine. Am I correct in this thought?
Is the best solution to call a plumber and have them replace the drain pipe with a 2in pipe?
Thanks for any advice!
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02-04-2009, 10:09 PM
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Handyman
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If you do what lazypup said and use a powered drain auger you may get the drain line to flow and not back up. If the drain is connected to the pipe in a sealed fashion as you say, it may lead to premature pump failure or allow the drain line to siphon the water out of the washer
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02-16-2009, 10:36 PM
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Handyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnaas2
If you do what lazypup said and use a powered drain auger you may get the drain line to flow and not back up. If the drain is connected to the pipe in a sealed fashion as you say, it may lead to premature pump failure or allow the drain line to siphon the water out of the washer
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Or worse yet if the washer is in the basement and there is a main line blockage fill it with sewage. 
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02-16-2009, 11:00 PM
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Redwood that thought hadnt crossed my mind, but wouldnt that be interesting to watch the person putting the clothes in the dryer
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02-18-2009, 03:22 AM
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The usually realize it when they open the lid... 
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02-18-2009, 04:44 PM
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This may not be an option for you but my washer drains into a utility sink or mop sink. This allows time for the water to drain and not over load the sewer pipe.
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03-10-2009, 07:26 AM
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Its a 2" dia. thats about 3" above the top of the washer. It only has about 30" before the trap though. then it "Ts" into the main down pipe (where I ran the snake). The fact that I can run 2 rinse cycles back to back without it overflowing if what miffs me. If it was blockage that should cause an overflow I would think.
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