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11-26-2007, 10:38 PM
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Deity
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Youngstown, Ohio USA.
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From the photo it appears that you have 3/4" copper lines which are presently connected directly to the tank.
There is a very easy method that will not require any soldering.
The plumbing codes prohibit directly connecting copper to a steel tank so you will first need to install "dielectric nipples." The dielectric nipples look like a short 4" piece of galvanized iron pipe with NPT (national pipe taper) threads on each end and a plastic sleeve liner.
Apply pipe dope to the threads on one end of the dielectric nipples and screw them into the water heater ports, then tighten thoroughly with a pipe wrench.
You will then need two 3/4" FIP x 7/8 compression flexible water lines. (FIP= Female iron pipe)
You can find the flexible lines in all hardware or home supply stores in the same area as the water heater parts & accessories.
The FIP connector will screw directly on the upper thread of the dielectric nipple and the 7/8" compression connector will fit directly on the end of the copper pipe and is tightened in place with a pair of wrenches. The threaded flex connectors also meet the code requirement for a union within 12" of the tank.
There are no components in a water heater that could be damaged by laying it down. The caution about transporting upright is because the outer skin of a water heater is thin sheet metal over a foam insulation core surrounding the steel tank. If they were transported laying down and other freight stacked on top of the boxes the box walls would collapse and the sheet metal skin could be dented. A dent in the outer skin would not effect the operation of the unit but it would present a problem to the retailer for aesthetic purposes. In fact, if you shop around some local hardware stores you can often find a water heater that has been dented that they will sell cheap. The dent would not alter the performance nor would it hinder the warranty, in fact, the water heater in my house is an A.O.Smith that was originally marked at $345 but i got it for $275 because it was dented. The dent is on the back side of the unit and i figured that once it was installed in the corner in the basement who would care about that dent?
Last edited by LazyPup; 11-26-2007 at 10:42 PM..
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11-27-2007, 04:46 PM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!!!
I got it in and it is heating up now. i really appreciate all of the help you guys gave, it really says alot about your character to be willing to take the time to help someone out like this.
One last question... While it is heating, i am hearing a "sizzle" such as water dripping on a hot frypan. I have checked and double checked and can see no leaks. ( i had a small drip from the cold water dieelectric fiting but tighting just a hair corrected it).
Is the sizzle something I should be concerned with or just start up gremlins?
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11-27-2007, 05:01 PM
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Deity
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Youngstown, Ohio USA.
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From a cold start as the water heater heats up there is a minor amount of physical thermal expansion of the water vessel which often sounds like a slight sizzle or a faint ticking sound. These are normal sounds and are no cause for alarm.
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11-27-2007, 05:53 PM
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Handyman
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Thanks Lazypup- The sound has since gone away.
I really do appreciate all of your help!
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