new sink leaking where rigid supply line connects to faucet stem

[OoerictoO]

okay. thanks so much!

i'll try to keep tightening them. i've been using a long screwdriver in the hole for the "handle" in the basin wrench

[OoerictoO]

actually, one more question.

if you attach those lines to the sink first, how do you get them down into the opening to the shutoffs?

[LazyPup]

Even under the best of conditions those supply lines are notorious for being a pain in the backside.

I much prefer to use plain straight tubing and the factory supplied rubber cone washer and brass friction washer that comes packed with nearly all faucets.

With the cone washer method if underside of the faucet will be in a concealed location such as in a cabinet you can use ordinary 3/8" copper tubing. When the supply tubes will be exposed, such as when hanging a wall hung or pedestal sink you can get 3/8" plated supply tubes in Bright Chrome, Brushed Chrome, Gold and Bronze finish.

One of the drawbacks of using rigid metal supply tubes is that if you do not have a tubing bender it can be difficult to bend the tubing without having it collapse. While most plumbers would consider it unprofessional, they make a beaded tube that can easily be bent by hand without collapsing.

To install straight tubing you insert the end of the tubing through the faucet compression nut, then slip the brass friction washer on the tubing and finally you slide the rubber cone washer on the tubing and allow the tubing to extend past the rubber cone washer for about 1".

Now slip the end of the tubing up inside the faucet water inlet pipe until the top of the rubber cone washer is in contact with the bottom of the faucet tube. Slip the nut up over the cone washer and screw it onto the faucet in the normal fashion. As the nut is tightened the cone washer will be compressed between the nut and the base of the faucet inlet tube and you get a permanent water tight seal.

In many areas this is the method that is required on commercial plumbing installations which explains why the faucet manufacturers still pack the washers in their kits. If you have previously discarded your cone washer and brass friction washer you can purchase them at any local hardware store, but, be careful. The cone washers used for sinks and Lavatories is different from the cone washers for waterclosets (toilets) Make sure you get the correct cone washer.

See Illustration below:

[OoerictoO]

thanks!

i have a spiral/spring type tubing bender, will that do it?

i might look into using the rigid line. my question remains... how do you get the tubing, which is longer than the distance from the lip on the valve to the lip on the faucet opening into each opening after the sink is in? the run is almost straight.

i've already bruised my fingers trying to get that compression nut tight enough on my semi-rigid line.

[LazyPup]

Normally the input on the faucet is about 2" long and there are no internal obstructions. Measure the distance from the angle stop to the bottom of the faucet input and allow about another 1-1/2". Slip the nut, friction washer and cone washer on the upper end of your tube and slide it down about 2" then slip the end of the tube up inside the faucet inlet. You then slip the angle stop compression nut and ferrule on the bottom end of the tube and put the bottom end of the tube into the angle stop port. Tighten the angle stop compression nut then slide the cone washer up tight against the bottom of the faucet input, slip the nut up and tighten it in place.

The excess tubing inside the faucet input port will allow you to move the tubing up and down as needed. It also helps prevent the tubing from being pulled out of the faucet if it should be accidentally hit by a mechanical force.

[OoerictoO]

oh yeah. duh.

thanks so much! i'm gonna wail on these suckers one more time. if they still leak, they are getting the axe and i'll use the straight line. hopefully i can find some brushed chrome