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Old 05-25-2008, 10:53 PM
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ok, disconnect everything at the house hook. be very careful as there is no fusing between your house and the pole top or crib line. remove your whole old service. mount your meter box, install the hub. measure and screw together your mast. feed it up through the roof soffit. install the roof cap. install the weathercap. take the top off the weathercap and feed your wires down into the meter trough. bend the wires down into the insulated part of the weathercap - hots up top, neutral or ground through the bottom hole. now replace the upper insulator and screw on the weathercap top. In the meter trough make up the red and black to the upper meter terminals. the ground is stripped and goes on the middle terminal. install the rest of your conduit run to the basement panel box. at the conduit going to the basement from the meter socket install one bonding bushing, at the panel install the other bonding bushing. use a piece of #6 bare copper in the lugs on both bonding bushings. feed the cable inside the conduit. install the rest of your meter to panel run, black, red and heutral. at the meter location drive the ground rod, use the smallest knockout and feed the ground rod ground into and with the service neutral on the middle clamp. so you should have a wire along with the service conductors inside the pipe and bonding both bushings together. the wires at the panel go to the neutral strip, which is bonded to the case with a jumper or screw and the two hots go to the breaker. the waterpipe ground wire goes to the neutral strip.
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Old 05-26-2008, 07:15 AM
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Thank you, I understood everything but have one question.

I am pretty sure I know what you are saying but just want to be sure.

The driven ground rod uses a seperate conductor than the bonding bushings, right? That means the conduit from the meter to the breaker panel will have 2 bare 6AWG stranded conductors (one from the bonding bushings on both ends and one from the driven ground rod which will go to the neutral/ground strip then to the water meter).

or

Does the driven ground rod conductor connect to the bonding bushings as well so my whole ground/bonding conductor is 1 piece?

Finally, no bare ground needs to go in the conduit from the meter to the weathercap?

You recommend using PVC for the conduit?

Last edited by DKAudio : 05-26-2008 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 05-26-2008, 07:52 AM
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service entrance

look at the diagram. the ground from the driven ground rod is one piece to the neutral in the meter socket. another piece of bare 6 goes from the meter socket bonding bushing through the bushing's lug down in the conduit to the panelbox's bonding bushing's lug and through to the neutral strip. one piece of wire goes from the house waterpipe's clamp, through two clamps around the water meter all the way to the panel box's neutral strip. so at the panel box's neutral you will have one bare ground from the water pipe, one bare from the bonding system and one black/white tape from the meter neutral.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:34 AM
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Perfect, thank you so much for all of your help. I will let you know how the inspections go. We want to get power to the panel now, then we can wire up the basement without using a generator.

I will keep you posted, thanks again, you were a huge help.

Dan
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:36 AM
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Electrical

Well how did it turn out (pass or no pass) ?
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:03 AM
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Pass,
I used a new weathercap and new conductors (kept the exsisting conduit, meter trough, and entrance ell) to the new breaker panel.

The basement contained ~21 newly added outlets, 10 new light fixtures, and all new conductors.
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