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Exterior Oil Tank Base

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  • Exterior Oil Tank Base

    Hi all,

    My house currently uses Oil heat and the tank is in the back yard behind the house. The issue is that it looks like it was put on four small concrete slabs which have not broken and the tank is leaning slightly to the left. I would like to lift it up and pour a full concrete base below the feet. Is there anything I should know before i attempt this? i was told i could use a car jack and piece of wood to hold the tank up when i pour. But im not sure if i need a certain type of concrete or if i need to prep the ground with anything. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

  • #2
    you'll need to contact your building department to see what requirements they need. most outdoor tanks have a concrete base with a sill that is meant to contain any oil that spills or leaks out - in the case of a rusted tank.

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    • #3
      Not sure what you mean by my building department. This is residential tank and right now there is really nothing. We moved in and it is sitting on top of 4 concrete pavers under each leg that were basically broken surrounded by dirt and free weights... like working out free weights lol.

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      • #4
        have you applied for a building permit in your jurisdiction? before any work is started, this is usually the first step. you'll need to supply them with a diagram and estimated cost of the project.
        even rural towns, most of them need a building permit.

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        • #5
          For putting something under the legs of my oil tank? Yeah im not going to do that. Worst case oll get some new pavers and lift the tank up

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          • #6
            by the way this is only going to be about 4 feet by 6 feet. Nothing huge.

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            • #7
              I just had a new tank put on my property in december. there are four welded brackets at each corner of the tank. Into these openings screw a 1 1/4" galvanized pipe. The tank is situated so it tilts back from the outlet [off horizontal] a touch so water condensate doesn't enter your supply line. my type of fuel is K-1 kerosene. Home heating oil is diesel with an anti-gelling additive. when the outside temperature gets to about 12 degrees, the paraffin in the oil separates out and forms a sludge. FYI

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              • #8
                NFPA 31, Standard for the Installation of Oil-Burning Equipment, deals with tank installations. You can check with your local fire dept to see if they have a copy, or read it on line at NFPA by signing up. My 1997 Edition (out of date) Section 2-1.3.1 just says "Tanks hall rest on the ground or on foundations made of concrete, masonry, piling, or steel." There is more wording on the prevention of uneven settling and corrosion, and other sections cover restrictions on distances to property lines and buildings, and precautions in flood-prone areas.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by joshhudm View Post
                  Hi all,

                  My house currently uses Oil heat and the tank is in the back yard behind the house. The issue is that it looks like it was put on four small concrete slabs which have not broken and the tank is leaning slightly to the left. I would like to lift it up and pour a full concrete base below the feet. Is there anything I should know before i attempt this? i was told i could use a car jack and piece of wood to hold the tank up when i pour. But im not sure if i need a certain type of concrete or if i need to prep the ground with anything. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
                  I am a heating dealer and if it was mine i would not get inspectors involved.
                  If you only have one tapping out of the tank on the end near the bottom, then
                  i would slop the tank to the out let end a little and when you leave the tank with piping , put a good size drip leg with valve to let water out once in a while. After the drip leg put a good filter in the line.
                  When you prep the ground, take the sod off , if you have clay then dig down
                  a foot and compact sand in the hole. If you leave clay there the slab will heave. You can use ready mix cement or have them deliver. Finish it smooth
                  and seal it so water won't get in it. Paul

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                  • #10
                    I'll have to take a picture. Right now it leans away from the line that goes into the house. Are you saying it should lean the other? I do not want to get a new tank or make any modifications to it, I just want to "pretty it up"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by joshhudm View Post
                      I'll have to take a picture. Right now it leans away from the line that goes into the house. Are you saying it should lean the other? I do not want to get a new tank or make any modifications to it, I just want to "pretty it up"
                      If it is leaning away from the out let, is there a tapping at the other end or in the bottom to let water out. If water lays in the bottom of the tank it will rust it out. Paul

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                      • #12
                        I have no idea if there is a tapping or anything like that. Is there anyway i can check, i have never seen and water pool up, i really think the paver broke that it was on and thats why it is leaning. Here are some pictures.

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                        • #13
                          from your first photo it looks like the paver is cracked. just jack it up like you said and either pour a base or replace the paver. in the second pix, it shows the inlet and overflow going through the end bung hole bushing. in that case there won't be a bottom outlet on either end.

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                          • #14
                            Hey thanks thats good news. Should be easy enough

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
                              from your first photo it looks like the paver is cracked. just jack it up like you said and either pour a base or replace the paver. in the second pix, it shows the inlet and overflow going through the end bung hole bushing. in that case there won't be a bottom outlet on either end.
                              If there was a tapping in the bottom or low in the end you would see a 1/2 in
                              pipe plug sticking out. Your supply and return go down through the top.
                              I can't believe they don't any provision for taking water out.
                              If the water ever gets deep enough you would have to pump it out from the top. Paul

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