What to do next E13/14 pump noise no fuel monitor 2400

[alexhenryj]

I have an MPI Monitor 2400. I have been getting E-13 then E-14 with a steady clicking noise coming from the pump which I assume is it trying to pump empty. I cleaned the fuel filter (making a giant mess in the process) to attempt to get fuel in. Now, it still makes the noise and if I open the bleeder screw (? The big one), no fuel will come out even with it running and the outside tank is open again.

I am assuming the next step is to bleed the line but I have no idea how to do that. There is a fuel filter at the tank but no other place to bleed from between the filter and the monitor.

I bought my house almost 4 years ago, and burn roughly 50 gallons per year. I have never done any maintenance on it either except take the front off and use the shop vac on the two sides of the rubber elbow inside.

Thank You

[hawkins111]

bleed filter on tank

It is cleaner and easier to bleed the system out at the tank. Close the valve on the tank and remover the copper fuel line at the filter. Open the valve and catch the fuel. It will spit at first and then shoot out at least 4 to 6 inches. Close the valve and install the copper line. Open the valve and your stove should start. If you have a lot of bends or dips in the line you may have to open the fitting on the copper line at the filter and let some fuel out which will help getting the air out.

Tom

[HayZee518]

Error codes

Here is what the error codes mean:

E13 No ignition. Failure of ignitor, solenoid pump
or circuit board.
Incorrect wiring or flame rod
touches to burner parts.
Air pressure switch or overheat
open.
E14 Flame failure There are obstacles at circulation
air inlet or outlet.
Fan cage is clogged with dust.
Gas pressure dropped when other
gas appliances are turned on. [only with a GF2400 gas appliance]

If there is an ice pocket in your fuel line, this will stop fuel from flowing to the sump. what I did with my outside tank is angle it slightly away from the outlet valve and fitting so any water that accumilates, drains to the back of the tank. the outlet elbow sits almost at the bottom of the tank and because kerosene floats on top of water, you may be admitting a slight amount of water with your fuel. then it freezes in the line if it's anywhere outside.

[alexhenryj]

I don't believe it is ice as I found this problem in early fall when it was 50 degrees outside. It is roughly 30 foot run from the tank to the stove so I will try to bleed it from near the filter, and where there is a low spot in the run. I also opened the constant level valve area and that was in-fact empty. Well, it's 4:30 and dark, as good a time as any to get this started.

Also, which way do I have to turn my Firomatic valve to make sure it is open or closed? The handle is gone so all I have is the screw,


Thanks again, here we go!

[alexhenryj]

Got everything apart, it appears that either the filter or tank is clogged, or the firomatic valve on the bottom is stuck shut. Now I'm going to try and take the filter off.. or something like that.

[hawkins111]

fire valve

If there is no handle on the fire valve it is closed. The round handle threads the stem up to open the valve. If you have a fire the handle melts and the stem drops into the valve and shuts the fuel off. I think the valve is close and that is why you are not getting fuel to your heater.

Tom

[HayZee518]

fusible link valve

the valve is called a fusible link valve. As Hawkins stated when there is sufficient heat present the eutectic alloy in the valve melts and spring tension shuts the valve.
Because your handle is not there, the valve, in fact is shut. Try to get another handle and screw it on. It is not retained when it is all the way closed so it may have just fallen off.
Another thing to look at is to see at what level the bottom of your tank is in relation to your heater. The fuel line should be about 18 inches above the level where your fuel line goes through the wall to your heater.
Gravity pressure at this level is approximately 2.5 lbs.

[alexhenryj]

That filter sure holds a lot of kerosene! It was the valve, I really don't think there was ever a handle. Since I couldn't get one, I pulled it out with pliers and clipped it open with a pair of vice grips, which will remain there. Not ideal, I know but the threads spin so easily that when I tried to get another handle on it, it would just spin and wouldn't take hold.

Thanks for the help everyone. Now, can anyone point me to a maintenance thread? I know it has to be due for something.

[FordMan59]

Preventive Maintenance

As far as maintenance, as long as the heater is running good and has a nice even blue flame about the only thing you need to do is clean dust from the inside of the heater, keep the circulation fan clean, make sure the intake/exhaust is clear of obstructions and clean and/or change filters yearly. This is my regular preventive maintenance regiment and my 422 lasted 16 years using an average of 100-125 gallons of kerosene per year before needing any maintenance at which time I had to replace a warped flame ring, burn mat and gaskets that were destroyed during disassembly. If there's a specific problem you can ask questions or look through other threads associated with your problem.

[HayZee518]

tank valve

what I did on my old tank was I took a small drill in my portable drill out there and drilled a hole with the valve wide open and stuck a finishing nail through the hole.
this way I didn't sacrifice a vice grip plier.
when I got my new tank I told the installer to solder an extension into the brass elbow about two inches long. This way if water ever got into the tank, the internal level would be kerosene, kerosene floats on water - even if the tank was full of kero it would float on a 1-2 inch layer of water.

what you might do is remove the filter canister completely, install a 2 inch nipple and a 3/8 inch quarter turn ball valve into the outlet elbow after the tank valve, then open the valve with pliers and insert a finishing nail in the hole in the valve stem. the ball valve will give you means to shut off the fuel when you do maintenance on the heater.