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  • Tile Shower Drain

    I am doing a side job at a friends. Going to tile the entire shower, he already has it framed and ext grade ply on the walls. The pan is existing concrete slopped to the existing drain (there was a shower there before). My plan is to use Durock on the walls and then a waterproofing fleece that you embed in mortar over the walls and concrete pan. The existing drain appears to be 2" threaded. Is there a drain fitting with 2" threaded connection made for tiling that I can use? Everything I am seeing made for tiled floors is solvent, I really don't want to break apart the concrete and do a new drain, I'm just doing this for a friend, not getting paid.

  • #2
    shower

    is there a membrane embedded within the concrete base?
    this is the only way to make the drain waterproof and drain the pan to the drain proper.
    I've not seen a drain that screws into a fitting. Its all bolted up to sandwich the membrane to the drain fitting.
    there's some good aids on you tube dealing with shower pans.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
      is there a membrane embedded within the concrete base?
      this is the only way to make the drain waterproof and drain the pan to the drain proper.
      I've not seen a drain that screws into a fitting. Its all bolted up to sandwich the membrane to the drain fitting.
      there's some good aids on you tube dealing with shower pans.
      I'm not sure if there is, it was all existing. That is why I am going to use a waterproofing fleece that you embed in mortar (mentioned above). My concern is the drain fitting.

      Comment


      • #4
        Oatey make a threaded shower drain, should be available at most big box stores or plumbing supply houses.

        BUT the issue your going to have with this shower (I believe you have talked about this one before from memory) is that this drain that you have 1/2 of was meant to be flush with the concrete finished surface allowing all the water to enter the drain, with your plan to tile you will have a "weep issue". Moisture will pass through the grout and hit your water proof membrane then follow the grade (slope) to the drain, under normal circumstances the drain will have weep holes to allow this moisture to drain away but with yours there will be no weep holes and no way to add them, the mortar and grout will retain moisture. Another issue you will find is how are you going to end the water proof membrane at the drain, if you stop right at the drain you have an area that isn't water proof, the membrane must seal all the way right up to the drain lip at the bare minimum.
        Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
        Every day is a learning day.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by pushkins View Post
          Oatey make a threaded shower drain, should be available at most big box stores or plumbing supply houses.

          BUT the issue your going to have with this shower (I believe you have talked about this one before from memory) is that this drain that you have 1/2 of was meant to be flush with the concrete finished surface allowing all the water to enter the drain, with your plan to tile you will have a "weep issue". Moisture will pass through the grout and hit your water proof membrane then follow the grade (slope) to the drain, under normal circumstances the drain will have weep holes to allow this moisture to drain away but with yours there will be no weep holes and no way to add them, the mortar and grout will retain moisture. Another issue you will find is how are you going to end the water proof membrane at the drain, if you stop right at the drain you have an area that isn't water proof, the membrane must seal all the way right up to the drain lip at the bare minimum.
          Thanks for the reply, I worked there yesterday, he is expanding the shower area by about 1' wide so I hammer drilled rebar in the slab and used chicken wire to make a grid. I then poured crack resistant concrete to extended the pan to the curb that you would step over to get into the shower making sure it is all sloping toward the drain. I looked at the drain more closely and it is not threaded, it is 2" embedded in concrete and the top of the drain is flush with the top of the concrete pan. I should be able to run the waterproofing fleece all the way to the drain and then just use a decorative drain cap and cut tile around it. I measured the two threaded holes for the drain cap and they are 2 7/8" apart, I believe that is standard. Looks like it won't be the issue I thought it would!

          Comment


          • #6
            shower

            You're going to have problems I think!.
            If you used a membrane for the shower pan, the corners are installed like a backwards "hospital" corner and glued into place. the membrane extends a minimum of 6 inches up each wall.
            The membrane also extends up and over the sill.
            If water leaks through your fleece, how will it drain completely?
            How will you seal it at the drain opening?
            Over time, silicone sealant will become mushy and will leak!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
              You're going to have problems I think!.
              If you used a membrane for the shower pan, the corners are installed like a backwards "hospital" corner and glued into place. the membrane extends a minimum of 6 inches up each wall.
              The membrane also extends up and over the sill.
              If water leaks through your fleece, how will it drain completely?
              How will you seal it at the drain opening?
              Over time, silicone sealant will become mushy and will leak!
              I don't think there will be a problem with the membrane up the walls (should be the full height of the wall), the base or curb area, the membrane entrance to the drain is a concern.

              The corners are not folded they are cut directly into the corner (one side lapping the other) and then patched over with another layer of membrane and mortar.
              Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
              Every day is a learning day.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
                You're going to have problems I think!.
                If you used a membrane for the shower pan, the corners are installed like a backwards "hospital" corner and glued into place. the membrane extends a minimum of 6 inches up each wall.
                The membrane also extends up and over the sill.
                If water leaks through your fleece, how will it drain completely?
                How will you seal it at the drain opening?
                Over time, silicone sealant will become mushy and will leak!

                Originally posted by pushkins View Post
                I don't think there will be a problem with the membrane up the walls (should be the full height of the wall), the base or curb area, the membrane entrance to the drain is a concern.

                The corners are not folded they are cut directly into the corner (one side lapping the other) and then patched over with another layer of membrane and mortar.
                Thanks for the concern, I'm not worried though. The fleece that will be on the pan will be higher than the drain by just a little bit. I bought special pieces that are cut and bent for inside corners, they also make mending rolls to waterproof seams. I am going to do the pan first, then the inside corners, the use the mending rolls along the base perimeter then use wall fleece for the full height, this thing will be sealed! I put in a new shower mixing valve and drop ear yesterday. The Durock is almost all up too, then time for fleece.

                Comment

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