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  • Laser 30 Disassembly

    Had this question posted in the Toyostove thread, but I thought I might get more (any) responses here.
    Toyotomi Laser 30, "A" model. The Heat Chamber Assy, #19 has become loose and rotates and leaks exhaust during start up until it is up to temperature and the heat expansion tightens up the assy. This unit was purchased used with few hrs on it. I have purchased the replacement gaskets, Joint Gasket #16, Upper Gasket #18, and Lower Gasket # 21. I have the Heat Exchanger off #36, but I am stumped on what to do next. Do the screws on the top of the Heat Chamber Cover #17 have to come off to remove the Heat Chamber Assy, #19? I tried several and they seem to be rusted in so either heat is used or you just destroy them to get them out. I need disassembly instructions or a downloadable Factory Service Manual to accomplish this. All I have been able to obtain is the Installation / Maintenance Manual. Below is the state it is in now.

    Click image for larger version

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    Background is an ATV mechanic for 25 yrs.

  • #2
    You need to remove the bent pipe from the flue pipe. Most of the time the bent pipe stays with the heat exchanger. After the bent pipe you need to remove the baffle that goes over the burner. It will be much easier to remove the complete burner from the stove. The screws are very hard to get out. If they get stripped you will need to cut them off. While you are replacing the gaskets on the chamber you might as well clean the burner and replace the mat or use burner coating. Use Toyotomi part # 20478090 Screw 1T to put the chamber back together. To make the chamber gaskets last longer you will need to glue them with burner mat glue. After the chamber is put back together use burner mat glue on the seam, top and bottom. Use anti-seize compound on the "O" rings to help them go back together easier. Have you tried to contact your local dealer for a manual? He will be able to give you a download or file on your email. TomClick image for larger version

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    Last edited by hawkins111; 12-05-2014, 03:43 PM.

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    • #3
      I will attack the screws to get them out. Just wasn't sure howe to procede. Never thought to ask for a service manual especially after they said they had never worked on one. When I stopped by to order parts, I discovered no Toyo's in stock and they stated they had lost the dealership and were going Renni gas heaters. Seems everybody was going with natural gas and dumping Kerosene.
      Greg

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      • #4
        There is a dealer in Alexander Bay as well as Redwood. One of them should be able to help you. They both have email. If you have natural gas at your location a switch to Rinnai would reduce your maintenance by leaps and bounds. Tom

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        • #5
          Garlock's in the Bay, does not service. Purchased from them 9 yrs ago now. I am not aware of anybody in Redwood. Have used a guy out of Theresa, but he has never seen a Toyo 30. He is primarily Monitor. No natural gas, no cable, no high speed Internet, read as livin' out in the boonies!
          This is the 1st time ANYTHING has gone wrong with the 73, and I lay it on the dammed bugs!

          Greg
          Last edited by TechEditor; 12-14-2014, 11:26 PM.

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          • #6
            Try these guys:


            RT 37 Building Supply
            41932 NYS RT 37
            P.O.Box 209
            Redwood, NY 13679
            315-638-9551

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            • #7
              I hope you were able to get your L30 going? When you get the chamber apart look at the element inside to make sure it is not warped or cracked. The cone inside the element should be centered and not to one side. There is not much you can do if it is warped except replace the element. When going back together use burner mat glue and glue the gaskets top and bottom as well as all the way around the outside seam. This will keep the chamber from moving and cutting the gaskets.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                I got it a part. Used a propane torch to heat each screw, then they came out relatively easy. I removed the gaskets, and vacuumed the pieces out of the slot. Re-installed the gaskets, but did not think to use any glue because the factory gaskets didn't have any glue on them. Everything inside the burn chamber is in good shape. Even though the unit is 1st production in 1999, it has no more than 2 or 3 yrs of use on it. It was purchased by someone to heat their home while under construction. Then it just sat. Other than being full of sawdust, it is in pretty good shape considering.
                Back in operation, I have a nice blue flame and it is doing the job I require of it.
                You will notice some heat damage to the rear reflector because of heating the screws to remove them.
                Click image for larger version

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                Here is the replacement screw that I chose to replace the damaged Factory screws.
                Click image for larger version

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                Thank you for all the help. It's a bit daunting jumping into something that doesn't have "wheels" w/o a factory service manual. But it all worked out and it is in operation today with a nice blue flame.

                Greg

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                • #9
                  Did you talk to the guys in Redwood about a manual? What did they have to say??

                  Tom

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                  • #10
                    That is on my list to do this week while I am off from work. I intend to swing by and have a talk with them.

                    Greg

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                    • #11
                      where is or what is the heat exchanger for the laser?

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                      • #12
                        The heat exchanger on a Laser 30 is on top of the burner. It has two chambers for the hot gas to go through. On a L30 there is a relief cover in case of a back fire.
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          The Heat Exchanger sets on top of the burn chamber and the exhaust flows thru it and gives up its heat to the exchanger because of the large surface area of the exchanger. A fan blows air over and thru the sections of the heat exchanger and out into the room. Think of it like an automotive radiator, hot coolant (exhaust) is dumped into a large surface area container where the coolant (exhaust) is slowed down and it spends a longer time in contact with the outer, cooler walls and the heat naturally transfers to the cooler walls (heat always goes to cold) where moving air, passing thru the radiator (heat exchanger) picks up that heat and transfers it away from the radiator (into the room).
                          There is no such thing as cold, just an absence of heat. When you get to Absolute Zero, ALL heat is gone.

                          Greg Hall
                          Technical Editor

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                          • #14
                            This is a good example of a warped heat elementClick image for larger version

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                            • #15
                              Stopped by Rt. 37 on Monday. They called their distributor but all they could do was leave a message. Apparently no one is available this week. Rt. 37 told me they would contact me when they heard something.

                              Greg

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