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Maytag Dryer DE-308 I am at my wits end :(

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  • Maytag Dryer DE-308 I am at my wits end :(

    Our trusty 26 year old Maytag electric dryer model DE-308 died with a puff of smoke the other day.

    I decided that I would take a shot at repairing it

    After a few days, I have now replaced the motor, blower and belt - as well as cleaned up the beast, lubricated the rollers etc.

    Believe none of that was easy...but I persisted including multiple trips to the parts store.

    Sadly, after connecting the new motor (and I swear on the bible that I plugged it in correctly (yellow wires into connector marked with a yellow-dot, black wire into etc. etc.) and closing the door - then pushing the dial-button gizmadoo - all I got was a brief hum - then the mains fuse blew!

    I re-set the fuse - rechecked the connections to the motor - and now...nada ...dead as a doornail!

    So, now my choice is seemingly to toss in the proverbial towel (after spending $150.- on new parts) and just buy a new dryer from China or Bangladesh which probably will last maybe 3 years at the most ...OR..ask this forum for any bright ideas...

    Anyone...what am I missing if anything..did I blow up the new motor and if so why, since it is connected according to the little color dots on the motor..

    I am at a loss..HELP ANYONE!!
    Last edited by cvj; 06-08-2006, 09:44 PM.

  • #2
    ** what am I missing if anything **

    Something for sure. Unfortunately, there is no single thing that could be. It would have to be checked out to determine where the fault lies.

    ** did I blow up the new motor **

    I don't know about 'blow up' but burn out might be a possibility.


    ** now my choice is seemingly to toss in the proverbial towel (after spending $150.- on new parts) and just buy a new dryer **

    .. or call in a professional to see if he can find the current problem?


    ** I re-set the fuse - rechecked the connections to the motor - and now...nada ...dead as a doornail! **

    Did you confirm there is power actually still getting to the dryer?

    Did you check all the electrical parts in the dryer which could be responsible to a total stoppage? The door switch and timer are at least 2 possibilities. There may be others, check the appliance's wiring diagram.

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site
    =D~~~~~~

    Comment


    • #3
      I realize that this is an OLD thread... but for anyone who is interested:



      Referring to the schematic diagram, I would do the following:

      1. Open the heating element circuit (White & Brown wire, #2) to isolate the motor circuit -- do not allow the removed wire to short -- tape it off. If the breaker or fuse trips with the heater circuit open, and assuming that the timer and timer wiring are OK, the problem is in the drive motor or drive motor wiring. If the breaker does not trip, the problem is in the heater circuit.

      2. If the problem is in the drive motor circuit, verify the wire connections by function rather than trusting to color markings on the new motor. Next, inspect the centrifugal switch on the motor to verify its operation. The motor is a dual-winding 115VAC motor, with one of the windings being used only for start-up. Once the motor is up to speed, the centrifugal switch should open the start winding circuit, leaving only the run winding to turn the motor. At the same time, the centrifugal switch (it is a DPDT type) will close the heater circuit, connecting the heater element to the 2nd 115VAC leg. (The heater element is the only component operating at 230VAC.)

      3. If the problem is in the heater circuit, start by inspecting the element itself. It sits on insulators in the galvanized steel plenum tube; the element must not touch the steel anywhere. Next, inspect the wiring from the temperature selector switch to the thermostats. This dryer uses three (3) thermostatic switches -- a "low" cycle stat, a "regular" cycle stat, and a high limit safety stat. The high limit stat is mounted directly to the heater element plenum tube, while the two cycle control stats are mounted to the blower housing cover. Make sure that none of the wires to the stats are shorted to the chassis anywhere.

      If a full-size PDF of the schematic or the parts manual is needed, I will be happy to provide it upon request.

      Comment

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