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  • tile around toilet

    I have tiled before, but not around lots of corners and what not. I am going to be tiling the bathroom, and my ?? is, when installing the toilet, do you tile around the drain then install toilet on top of tile, or do you install toilet then tile around it? I would think that you tile around it, bc if you tile then install it, there will be the grout lines that are running underneath the base of stool and will allow dirt, water, whatever to get underneath there, right? Plus, I would want the toilet to be tight on the drain and floor, right?

  • #2
    The proper procedure is to lift the toilet and install the tile up close to the flange.

    The Plumbing code prohibits the closet flange from being flush with or recessed below the finished floor. When ceramic tile is installed and it builds the floor up to or above the level of the flange you can install a "Flange Build up adapter" to raise the finshed level of the flange. (See attached illustration- click on the thumbnail to enlarge).

    After the toilet is reset you should run a bead of caulking around the perimiter of the bowl base. When doing so leave a small section about 2" to3" long on the back of the bowl where it will not be seen. The purpose of leaving the small section without caulking is to permit water to seep out in the event the wax ring should fail, thus giving a visual indication of the wax ring problem.

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    • #3
      Tile around tolilet

      I'm a retired home remodeler with a lot of tile experience. Remove the toilet,lay out your patern which is dependent on the shape and size of the room. Tile close to the flange but be careful to leave room to insert and remove the bolts from the flange. In the event of future toilet removal, the studs often are not reuseable and would need to be replaced, if the tile is to close you may ruin the tiles trying to change the bolts.
      Adding tile to your floor will raise the floor by a 1/4" plus the layer of thick set. I don't recall ever having to raise the flange as long as the floor and sub floor are in good condition. Use Floemaster extra thick wax ring with the rubber insert and if you feel that you need to you can put a thin wax ring on top of the thick ring, extra wax won't hurt anything.
      When you install the toilel, set it square and use the studs to align, when the toilet is down wiggle it a bit into position and then sit on it and wiggle to set it. When you put the nuts on the studs be very careful not to over tighten,porcelain will crack easily. Depending on what stud kit you buy the nut size should be between 5/16"to 7/16", use a wrench and once the nut is finger tight put the wrench on the nut and only using one finger on the wrench snug the nut down. Check to make sure toilet is solid and can't be moved, if needed gently tighten alternately untill it does'nt move. Recheck in about a week and secure if needed.
      Caulk looks great if done well and horrible if not. Caulk gets dirty and can separate and also isn't always easy to remove espeially from grout. Where ever caulk is used , it should be checked every 6 mo,s and usually replaced about year or two, alot has to do with quality of product and the application. Many people (my self included) do not caulk around their toilets. If you do caulk, use a thin bead then dampen your finger with water and softly run your finger along the bead to smoothen. Leave an opening in the back for detecting any future leakage. When you have a smooth bead take a piece of wet but not soaking spoonge and lightly smooth and clean. Don't dab or rub, use a smooth stroke.
      This is second nature to me and I forgot to say, after the tiolet is set and secure don't forget to flush it a few times to make sure there are no leaks from underneath or from your valve and feed line.
      Sorry if this was lengthly but I hope it helps.

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      • #4
        Ceramic Tile Installation

        I am a tile contractor that can share a few tips:

        The sides are most important because that is where the bolts which is also close to the edge.

        The front and back have alot more room and aren't as critical.

        You want to allow no more than 1/2" space between your tile cut and toilet flange to allow removal and installation of the bolts that hold your toilet.

        I have found an awesome way to mark and cut these which simplifies the whole process at my site


        ceramictilepro

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