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  • Appropriate sheetrock in Bathroom

    I am attempting to finish the sheetrocking in my new bathroom. I am installing a freestanding clawfoot bathtub near the outside wall. My question is: Is greenboard recommended for the walls, interior and exterior walls? Is regular sheetrock an acceptable finish if the paint job is enamel and well done.

    Second question: The shower will be tiled and I plan on using cementboard as the backer for the tile. The shower itself is not completly enclosed. The ceiling is open to the rest of the bathroom. Again, is regular sheetrock with a good paint job acceptable?

    Thanks in advance any advice given!

  • #2
    THE SHOWER ENCLOSURE:
    1. Must have cement backerboard until the walls reach an elevation of 72" above the elevation if the finished shower drain opening.
    2. Must have "house wrap" or other suitable moisture barrier behind the cement backerboard.
    3. All joints must be covered with a water resistant sealant.
    4. Backerboard must be installed with water resistant fasteners.

    WALLS OTHER THAN SHOWER ENCLOSURE:
    1.Water resistant gypboard (Greenboard) must be installed on all walls except in the shower enclosure.
    2. Greenboard MAY NOT be installed over a water resistant membrane.
    3. All cuts or exposed edges must be sealed with a water resistant sealer.

    CEILING:
    Water resistant gypboard (greenboard) MAY NOT be installed on a ceiling if the framing is greater than 12" center to center spacing. You may use ordinary sheetrock or install firring strips 12"OC and use greenboard.

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    • #3
      Home Depot is carrying some stuff called GP dense armor paperless drywall that can be used in place of greenboard and is resistant to mold because it has a fiberglass cover rather than paper. It is more expensive and heavier than greenboard, but was all they had the day I showed up. So I used it in our master bath and found that it cuts like regular drywall and finishes nicely. But you want to wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt when working with it, or end up with a lot of little fiberglass stickies in your skin. In my limited experience it seemed to prefer nailing to screws--my drywall screw shooter left bumps.

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      • #4
        I am doing a stand up shower, there was Densarmor already instaled. Can I tile over this or do I need to put in backerboard?
        Last edited by upfront; 09-30-2009, 01:26 PM.

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        • #5
          Your should remove the Dens Armor and install cement backer board.
          Not only is this code it is the smartest option.
          Dens Armor is also the better option for the remainder of the bathroom as it is paperless and has a built in water barrier, you should also prime with a vapor barrier primer like Kills or Zinsser.
          Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
          Every day is a learning day.

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          • #6
            Thanks,
            What do I use to seal the seams in the backer board, do I mud and tape just like drywall ? What fasteners do I use, I would guess that they need to be corosion resitant as well ?

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            • #7
              I would go with stainless steel as any coating on screws will get abraded off when they're driven through ANY cementitious product.

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              • #8
                You cannot use drywall mud to seam backer board. Use a backer board tape (mesh) and usually you use tile glue (mastic) although you can use any sort of high quality caulk as long as it's NOT silicon based ( tile glue won't adhere to it if it's silicon) apply the caulk to the seam over the mesh tape then with a wide putty knife flatten it out while pushing it into the seam.
                I almost always use the tile glue (mastic) and apply it over the mesh tape and with a flat putty knife push it in and flatten it out before I cover over with the tiles when using backer board.
                You can also buy backer board screws that won't cause any corrosion problems down the track if used.
                The backer board and the screws are available at the big box stores backer board 1/2" will be around $10/sheet and the screws will be $7 a box.
                I use square drive for floors an Phillips drive for walls.
                Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
                Every day is a learning day.

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                • #9
                  Thanks,
                  now on a different note, I found a drawing on a different thread. "New tub instalation" posted 02-08-2007. I tried to attach the drawing but i keep getting an error message."You are only allowed to post URLs to other sites after you have made 15 posts or more".
                  The diagram shows tile going down past the tub flange. What holds the grout in where the tile goes down past the backer? I have a new tub here, the flange is 1/4" thick, The backerboard is 1/2" thick. that leaves 1/4" space behind the tile, the grout will fall out.
                  Last edited by upfront; 10-01-2009, 09:50 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Bring the backer board down to the top of the tub flange, when installing the tiles add a little extra tile adhesive to fill the void difference (1/4") below the backer board, then grout/caulk as normal between tile and tub.
                    Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
                    Every day is a learning day.

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