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  • Another Deck Question

    I bought a house this winter and I knew the deck would need to be treated since it has that grey look. Anyway, the integrity seems to be find, the deck is very sturdy and a visual inspection doesn't make me thing I have to replace any lumber.

    So my question, there are many spots that will give you splinters if you walk barefoot. So How would I go about sanding the entire deck. It is quite large so a sanding block and sanding by hand is out of the question. I would like to by a power tool to help me sand. Any suggestions?

    What are the steps after I get the deck nice and smooth and all of the saw dust removed? Do I still need to wash with a deck wash or does sanding eliminate that?

  • #2
    a belt sander would be the way to go. but use a finer grit say a 100 grit. 80 would be too coarse. I'd first say use a floor sander but that machine removes a lot of stock very fast and usually deck materials are soft pine. For the wood splinters, what's happening is the wood grain is drying out and raising above the softer wood "pulp" [at loss for a better description] use a sanding sealer. My guess is that the sealer will be absorbed into the softer pulp and the grain and keep everything together [not seperating] then you'll have something [hard] to which you'd apply a stain or whatever finish you want.

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    • #3
      Just to make sure I understand. A sanding sealer is applied before sanding, so apply the sanding sealer to all surfaces that will be sanded. Then run over the entire surface with a belt sander. After that do I need to use a deck wash, or just blow and hose the saw dust before sealing?

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      • #4
        use the sealer AFTER you sand as you'll have raw exposed pulp of the wood deck. sweep off the dust before you apply the sealer or use an air jet. typical sealers are shellac based like Parks clear shellac.

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        • #5
          possible problem

          if i understand the question it is an outside deck. Sanding sealer is for interior use only. It is great to seal the the wood before a poly or varnish but not for exterior use.
          For exterior use try good premium deck cleaner then follow few days later with a clear or toner sealer.

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          • #6
            Thanks wvguy.

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            • #7
              So I purchased 5 gallons of Olympic Deck Wash. 5 gallons of Olympic stain (there were 3 shades I choose the middle one)

              So my plan is to at least get the cleaner and stain on the deck and see what happens. The stain might smooth out some of the splinters. If not, there is always next year to go about sanding.

              Thanks for all of your suggestions.

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              • #8
                great choice

                great choice.
                you will get some of the splinters with the cleaning and sealing but ya you will still have some.
                Make sure you only use one coat of the stain.

                Let me know how it goes.

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                • #9
                  just a quick question, I saw on another post that you recommended someone not use a pump sprayer to put on stain... why not? I plan on using one for the deck wash and stain.

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                  • #10
                    here is why

                    applying deck wash or deck cleaner with a pump up sprayer is great no problem there.
                    Here is why not to use a deck sprayer for stain or sealer. First, deck boards are sometimes cupped(curved up or down ) and they will pool product causing excessive product known as flashing. If you get this you will get shiny spots, sticky spots or both.
                    Read the directions on the stain but almost all will say one thin coat. After that you are wasting time and product/money.
                    They only way to spray is to spray a small area then back brush while the product is still wet. This will even out the product and eliminate pooling of product. So most time it is just as quick to just brush with a natural bristle brush.

                    Hope that helps.

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