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  • Kenmore fridge icing up and leaking

    I have a Kenmore top-freezer, no ice-maker fridge (model # 106.68207891)that is about 6 yrs old and has two problems, the first which has become less prominent recently but which I will describe since it may be related to the second.
    The first problem (a knocking noise when the compressor cycles off) first appeared about a year ago. A Sears repairman told me over the phone that the problem probably was a failing compressor and that I should live with it till the fridge failed completely since it would be a very expensive repair. The warranty on the compressor, of course, expired 3 months earlier.
    The second problem -- which appeared only a week ago -- was water leaking into the fridge compartment. After checking to make sure the freezer air flow vents weren't blocked by food packages, I removed the freezer floor and found it packed with ice. I cleaned all the ice out, reinstalled he floor, and the unit now works like a charm. Even the compressor knock seems to occur less frequently.
    Question is whether the defroster heater is shot and whether the problem is likely to reoccur, and if there is some preventive measure to keep the unit from freezing up again. I looked for a drain - thinking it might be blocked --in back of the freezer compartment when I took out the floor but couldn't find any. Any thoughts? Advice? Thanks.

  • #2
    Originally posted by cashdan
    Kenmore top-freezer fridge model # 106.68207891

    I removed the freezer floor and found it packed with ice. Question is whether the defroster heater is shot and whether the problem is likely to reoccur
    A defrosting problem would usually result in an excessive "frost" (white, snow-like material) on the evaporator (cooling) coil not "ice". If it was actually "ice", you may have a plugged defrost water drain. The defrost heater has nothing to do with that.

    LINK > How does a frost free refrigerator's defrost system work?

    and if there is some preventive measure to keep the unit from freezing up again.
    Remove any blockages... although it might have just been caused by an ice buildup itself in which case just thawing it might have cleared it. If not, if will likely build up and/or leak again within 24 hours or so.

    a knocking noise when the compressor cycles off. A repairman told me that the problem probably was a failing compressor and that I should live with it till the fridge failed completely since it would be a very expensive repair.
    That's likely correct.

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

    =D~~~~~~
    Last edited by Dan O.; 11-07-2008, 02:44 AM. Reason: spelling

    Comment


    • #3
      drain location

      Thanks for the tip. Could you instruct me as how to access the drain. I see a housing just to the rear of the control box which I assume leads to the top of the drain tube but I can't figure out how to remove the darn thing. Thanks.

      Comment


      • #4
        You can see what might be required to access the drain area on several different makes and models of refrigerators at the following link. While none are likely for your exact model, one of them might give you an idea for yours as well.

        LINK > My fridge is leaking water, what might the problem be?

        JMO

        Dan O.
        www.Appliance411.com
        The Appliance Information Site

        =D~~~~~~

        Comment


        • #5
          Kenmore Icing up worked

          Hi Dan:
          want to let you know that I located the freezer drain tube after the problem re-occured by taking off the freezer back wall and locating the drain tube which indeed was plugged with ice. After repeated attempts at clearing the tube by injecting hot water into it with a turkey baster, I finally got the water in the freezer to drain. The sound of water dripping down into the pan at the bottom of the fridge was music to my ears and I hope the fix works this time. Much thanks for your help.
          One question though.
          Before accomplishing this, I tried to clear the tube from the bottom with a straighted coat hanger wire. There were two tubes and one was blocked (the one which ultimately turned out to be the freezer tube). When I stuck the wire up the other tube it popped up thru a small plactic plug at the back of the crisper. Can you tell me what the function of this opening is, and whether the plug should be closed tight? Right now it is a little loose, probably from poking the wire thru the opening a number of times. Thanks again and Happy New Year.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by cashdan

            I tried to clear the tube from the bottom with a straighted coat hanger wire.
            A coat hanger is often too rigid for such an application as the drain tube usually has several twists and turns on route to the drain pan.


            the other tube it popped up thru a small plastic plug at the back of the crisper. Can you tell me what the function of this opening is
            I'm afraid I can't. Maybe it's an alternate way for drain water to go if there's a problem with the other??

            whether the plug should be closed tight? Right now it is a little loose
            I don't know that either I'm afraid. I can't see it hurting anything even if it was loose, maybe water collecting under there during a defrost? You might want to keep an eye on that area for a couple of days.

            Happy New Year
            Thanks, you too.

            Dan O.
            www.Appliance411.com
            The Appliance Information Site

            =D~~~~~~

            Comment


            • #7
              Kenmore freezer ice-up FIX

              I know how frustrating it is to get freezer ice build-up and unknown annoying noises but I have a solution that works great. I figured this out since I got tired of taking the freezer apart 10 times in 5 years and searching for a never ending noise:
              • Pull out and unplug the refrigerator cord and take the lower back plate off (about a dozen screws) and you should see the plastic ½” drain tube hanging down and pointing at the plastic drain pan that is usually dry but stained. You will find out why it is that way as we go along. NO NEED TO TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY NOR DISCONNECT THE WATER LINE UNLESS YOU NEED THE EXTRA ROOM TO GET BACK THERE.
              • Take the shelf, freezer floor, ice maker and light assembly out of the freezer (about a dozen more screws). Mark the wires if you have to disconnect them so you know where they go. Get as much ICE out as you can and mop up the water with some old towels. If you use a scraper you will hurt the plastic, unless you have a plastic scraper or just hitting it with the palm of your hand will break it up nicer. Get everything as dry as you can. Be careful to defrost the Styrofoam inserts slowly until they lift out of their square holes (a hair dryer works wonderful for this). This whole job gets lots easier after you do it a couple of times, BELIEVE ME.
              • If you have a shopvac this part works better: Pull the end off of a shopvac hose (it will go back on later) and feed the plastic shopvac hose up over the plastic ½” drain tube in the back of the refrigerator. Don’t turn the shopvac on just yet.
              • Plug in a hair dryer and prop it up on a small mountain dry towels inside the freezer pointing at the 1/2” drain hole in the back under the coils (the hole is metal lined and in the middle of the metal tray in back, you’ll see it).
              • NOW, turn on the hair dryer and turn on the shopvac and wait about 10 minutes until the shopvac sucks the hot air down through the drain hole and melts the ice. Pour some water down there to clean it out a second time. You should feel the suction of the shopvac at the hole with your finger and it should be strong.
              • The ice clog is about 6 inches down the tube below the opening so it takes a while to thaw out. NOW you know why the drain pan that sits in the bottom of the refrigerator is always empty and just stained.
              • ANSWER: The heat from the freezer heater coil (during the defrost cycle) that is behind the cooling fins in the freezer can’t possibly heat up the drain tube so the water freezes solid. Then the heater coil melts the ice on the cooling coils and the water runs down through the openings in the square Styrofoam inserts (instead of down the drain) and right into the refrigerator where it puddles on the shelves.
              • I usually run some extra water down there and let the shopvac suck it in to give a good rinse.
              • Now put it all back together, BUT PUT THE STYROFOAM INSERTS BACK IN FIRST or you will be taking it back apart again to put them in. Pretty soon you will do the whole job of inside 1 hour on a weekend. The wires with the long piece of tape on them gets routed over the top of the cooling coils and tapes to the back wall above the fan, no biggy.

              NOW FOR THE NOISE: Remember when you cleaned out the Condenser coils underneath years ago and thought you heard something? That was your vacuum extension wand hitting the fan. The blade is probably bent a little. With the power still off spin the blade with your finger and see if it wobbles and also check if there is anything on the blade or motor shaft that needs to be cleaned off, line string, pet hair or dust. You shouldn’t have to take anything apart to accomplish cleaning it, just unwind anything that got caught up in it. The blades can be bent back as long as you are careful.
              THE OTHER THING I DID was screw in the front wheel levelers (behind the plastic vent cover under the refrigerator door) until the front was higher that the back. That way the water that accumulates in the freezer is sure to drain to the drain hole in the back and the 2 front doors close better on their own----AMAZING. Also the plastic drain pan sits up a little higher and doesn’t vibrate on the frame and make noise.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey crashalash,

                Same problem, probably another model of LG Refrigerator, sold as a Kenmore.

                Your solution worked perfectly. There is a little difference in the freezer compartment, but the since no ice maker was installed in mine, it was even easier to access the back. The back cover just pops out with a little bit of persuasion. Just gently pull down on the top and it pivots out. You want to be careful of the ice maker mounting hole, because there is one screw in my model that needs to come out, and one electrical snap-together connection that needs to be undone before you can pull the panel all they way out. That connection runs the fan in the freezer compartment.

                I had the hair dryer on it for an hour, didn't use a vacuum as I don't have a shop vac. Tried to put hot water in to thaw it, and all that did was drip into the refrigerator. Once I put the vacuum on the end of the drain hose in the back of the refrigerator, the ice plug came out almost immediately.

                This refrigerator generates an ice-flow in the freezer on the defrost cycle if the drain hole is plugged.

                We'll see how long it takes before the ice flows begin again, but this method of defrosting the drain hole is a lot less messy and much faster than anything else I've tried. I put a towel in the bottom of the refrigerator to soak up any water draining down, and just left everything in the fridge.

                Thanks again,

                howling frog

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