Monitor Vented Kerosene Heater

[Gixxer 1k]

Do you actually have a Monitor heater? If so which model is it and what is the exact code? The dealer that told you to use additive to get the water out is completely wrong. You can not use fuel additive to remove raw water. If you have so much water in your tank that it clogs the filter you are in trouble. Are you sure the problem is water? If it is really cold out and you have the wrong fuel, i.e #2 home heating oil you can have the filter clogged and it looks like ice. Another point is that you should replace the filter, not use it again. Tom

I am at work and the unit is home I will get the exact model number and let you know. I am using Kero, dyed red. Or at least that is what I asked for. It was frozen with ice so I do know water is an issue. One of the problems is that the tank is full, and it is a brand new tank. Cant figure out how the water got in?? And i always replace the filter and not reuse.

[hawkins111]

I don't want to leave the idea of the wrong fuel just yet. Since your tank is new and full, I would think you would be able to see or figure out where the water comes from, i.e. open lid, bad vent. With dyed fuel it is very hard to determine which fuel you have. If you have a #2 product and it is gelling you have big issues. Gelling looks like ice in the fuel. The wax is turning to crystals and it is surprising how much it looks like ice. One way to confirm this is to take a sample of "iced up" fuel inside in a clean jar. Leave it for a while and if it is #2 and gelling the crystals will go away in the warm room. If it is water you will see it collecting on the bottom of the jar. We see this every once in a while as our school district uses #2 for their boilers. They preheat all their fuel and get the benefits of higher BTU's. Once in a while someone will get a load of #2 and will find it out the hard way when it is 0 or 10 below. Take it from someone who has tried additives to lower the pour point of this fuel, it does not work, particularly when it is still very cold out. The only way to solve this is to remove the fuel and get the right grade. I hope for your sake you don't have the wrong stuff. Tom

[Gixxer 1k]

Ok so I had my daughter read the name and model number and code it is giving, it is not a "real" monitor it is a Toyotomi Laser 30 Programmable set back, the code is EE12, I called the fuel company who is also the dealer for these types of heaters and asked again if I was delivered the right fuel. They emphatically said yes, which I am sure they would anyway. They did come out last year for this problem and determined it was water, they drained off around 5 gals from the bottom spitgot before it goes into the filter assy then they replaced the filter while I was at work and it worked for most of the rest of the winter except for when it went into below zero temps and gave me the same code. They also put a new cap and vent on the outside tank which looked more water tight then the last. So now it really does not matter what the outside temp is except for when it is close to being caught up, when the unit only has to come on a short time to keep the current temp it is set at then it shuts itself off and works as it should, the problem comes when it is on for a long time trying to get to the pre set temp, I can only get about an hour or less before it gives the code and shuts down. So I am thinking of doing the same thing as before myself this time to gauge how much water is actually in there, if I am correct the water will lay on the bottom under the good fuel, if I opened the petcock and slowly drained it off it should work, the dealer said if I use a water displacer such as methanol or a combo of meth and iso it would be ok, but I am hearing more people say not to do it, just to get what i couldn't off the bottom...

[hawkins111]

The stove is overheating. Remove the screen from the back and clean it. If that does not work clean the fan blades themselves. Again, do not use additives. Tom